Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to Frequently Asked Questions for First Generation Firebirds that have been asked and answered on FGF. Special thanks needs to be given to all the FGF members who took the time to respond to other member's questions.

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Wheels, Brakes, and Axle - Axle

Short answer: All 1967–69 Firebirds used the 8.2″ 10-bolt (a “BOP” Buick-Olds-Pontiac rear) — the size has nothing to do with posi. From ~1970–71 on, Firebirds used the corporate (Chevy) 8.5″ 10-bolt.

Beyond ring-gear size, the 8.2″ uses a weaker cone-type posi that retains at the axle/bearing end, while the 8.5″ uses a clutch-type posi with C-clips inside the carrier (among other differences) — the 8.5″ is the stronger unit.

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Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am

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Short answer: Pontiac rear-axle housings can be identified by year using their date codes, stamped codes, and a few physical features. The 1969 axle ID codes differ from 1967–68 — the full table is below.

Identifying features by year:

  • 1967: the center section has the loops for A-body control-arm bushings plus leaf-spring perches and factory traction-bar brackets; a date code is cast into the center section.
  • 1968: dropped the control-arm loops and traction-bar mounts, but used the same codes as 1967.
  • 1969: the date-code position moved to the other side of the center section, and flattened spots were added on top of the axle tubes where the snubbers meet (1967–68 have none).
  • All three years carry a 2-letter stamped code about 3–5″ to the left of the center section, on the rear of the left (driver-side) axle tube — often hidden behind the steel brake line.

When identifying a rear end, check the cast date codes (same style as engine parts), the axle code (rear of left tube), spring-perch depth (1967 Monoplates are shallow), the extra traction-bar brackets (1967 only), and the flattened spots on top (1969 only).

1967, 1968, and 1969 Axle Identification Codes

Ratio

1967

1968

1969

Std. Diff. Code

Lock Diff. Code

Std. Diff. Code

Lock Diff. Code

Std. Diff. Code

Lock Diff. Code

2.56

XB

UN

XB

UN

YB

ZB

2.78

XC

UP

XC

UP

YC

ZC

2.93

XD

UR

XD

UR

YD

ZD

3.08

XE

US

XE

US

YE

ZE

3.23

XF

UT

XF

UT

YF

ZF

3.36

XG

UV

XG

UV

YG

ZG

3.55

XH

UW

XH

UW

YH

ZH

3.90

UX

ZP

ZK

4.33

UY

ZR

ZM

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Short answer: On the Billing History card, the axle-ratio sales code appears in box 74 (1967) or box 37 (1968). The codes are the same both years:

Axle Ratio Sales Codes (Billing History)
Code Ratio
C 2.56:1
D 2.78:1
E 2.93:1
F 3.08:1
G 3.23:1
H 3.36:1
K 3.55:1
P 3.90:1
S 4.33:1
Don’t confuse these sales codes with the two-letter code stamped on the axle tube (decoded separately).

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Short answer: The axle-ratio sales code on the Billing History is in box 74 (1967) or box 37 (1968). The codes are the same for both years.

1967–68 Axle Ratio Sales Codes
Code Ratio
C 2.56:1
D 2.78:1
E 2.93:1
F 3.08:1
G 3.23:1
H 3.36:1
K 3.55:1
P 3.90:1
S 4.33:1
Don’t confuse these sales codes with the two-digit code stamped on the axle tube.

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Bulletin 68-I-15 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 4, dated October 16, 1967. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Safe-T-Track Rear Axle Lubricant.

Short answer: Differential chatter on low-speed turns in Safe-T-Track equipped units is cured by a lubricant change; only Part No. 1050081 [Z] (Gp. No. 8.800) is approved — no substitute is recommended.

A number of cases of differential chatter on low speed turns have been reported in recent years on Safe-T-Track equipped units. Investigations prove that lubricant change is still the recommended fix for axle chatter.

It is imperative that only Part No. 1050081 [Z] (Gp. No. 8.800) lubricant be used. No other lubricant is recommended nor approved.
This is a transcription of the original dealer bulletin for easier reading and search. The complete original scan is shown below.

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Short answer: A badly worn yoke usually means the inner tailshaft bushing is worn out — it’s a ~2″ softer (sacrificial) bushing pressed into the tailhousing, and replacing it requires removing the tailshaft. A new yoke alone won’t fix it if the bushing is shot.

That said, some yoke wear is normal at 30+ years — the part sticking out always looks rough; what matters is the surface inside the trans and where the seal rides (a groove worn by the old seal will leak a new one). In normal weighted condition ~3/4 to 1-1/4″ of yoke should stick out of the tailshaft. Replace the seal and yoke (cheap, new or junkyard — common across GM); refresh the gear oil. The finger-tip of sludge on the magnet is normal.

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Short answer: Two ways. Read the code: the two-letter code on the rear of the driver’s-side axle tube (halfway between the drum and the “pumpkin”) — wire-brush to read it. Or count turns: chalk-mark the driveshaft yoke and diff housing and the tire; rotate the tire and count driveshaft revolutions — ratio = driveshaft turns ÷ tire turns (e.g., 17 ÷ 5 = 3.4:1).

1967 Axle Codes
Posi Open Ratio
UN XB 2.56
UP XC 2.78
UR XD 2.93
US XE 3.08
UT XF 3.23
UV XG 3.36
UW XH 3.55
UX 3.90
UY 4.33
For reference: Powerglide 1st 1.76 / 2nd 1.00 / Rev 1.76; TH400 1st 2.48 / 2nd 1.48 / 3rd 1.00 / Rev 2.00.

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Short answer: Two common gear-ratio questions — how to measure the ratio you have, and how to choose one.

Measuring your ratio: on a non-posi (open) rear, the other wheel spins the opposite way, so turning one wheel by hand gives half the true ratio — a reading of ~1.37 is really ~2.74 (a standard 2.78 Pontiac ratio). To measure correctly, either block one wheel so it can’t spin and count, or better, spin the axle and count driveshaft yoke revolutions. Make sure the marks return exactly — close doesn’t count.

Choosing a ratio: for a mostly-around-town 350/TH400 with occasional highway, 3.23 is a good all-around choice (~2600–2700 rpm at 60 mph); 3.55 is livelier but busier on the highway (~2900–3000 rpm). Going much past 3.23 with your existing differential isn’t possible without changing the case. If you’re doing a full rear-end swap anyway, consider a 2nd-gen 8.5″ 10-bolt — ~1″ wider (you’ll re-cut the spring perches), but stronger, more common, and cheaper than first-gen rears. (FYI: code PX = a 1976–81 3.23 posi.)

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Short answer: They’re all the same type of unit — a limited-slip differential. Each GM division just branded it differently (with slight design variations): Pontiac called it Safe-T-Track, Chevy called it Positraction — both are “limited slip.”

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Short answer: The “round piece” under the master cylinder is the metering valve (front) — it holds off the front discs until the rear drums engage. A separate proportioning valve (rectangular, on the frame rail under the driver’s seat) was fitted only to 1967–69 V8 + A/C + disc cars to limit rear pressure and prevent the nose-heavy car’s rear wheels from locking.

From the 1967 Service Manual: “The Proportioning valve is used on disc brake cars with V-8 engine and air conditioning. Basically the valve works to limit hydraulic pressure to the rear wheels. Up to 380–420 psi the inlet (master cylinder) pressure will equal the outlet (rear wheel cylinder) pressure. Above this figure the outlet pressure rises slower… braking effect of the rear wheels is reduced in comparison to the front.”
Don’t “meter the front” to balance a system — that only encourages rear-wheel lockup. And don’t mix systems: use all the model-specific parts of one era (don’t combine the later combination valve with an earlier metering valve). The 1967–69 hydraulics are basically the same, so 1967–68 4-piston and 1969 single-piston calipers can be swapped. Use one donor’s complete valving (members prefer Firebird, not Camaro/Nova, lines and switch), and always replace the rubber hoses.

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Short answer: Yes — all 1967 Firebirds have the eyelets on top of the pumpkin (they used the A-body GTO/Tempest rear), and the backing-plate-to-backing-plate width matches a 1968. Whether you got none, one, or two radius rods (traction bars) depended on engine, transmission, and (in one case) axle ratio. Per the 1967 service-manual supplement (which calls them “radius rods”):

1967 Radius Rods Used
Radius Rods 6-cyl 1-bbl 6-cyl 4-bbl V-8 2/4-bbl
None Auto*
One (RH side) Manual Auto Auto
Two Manual Manual

* One rod is used if the ratio is 3.23:1. All 1967 Sprints came with factory traction bars. They can be adapted to a 1968, but the 1968’s staggered shocks and multi-leaf springs are a better setup — posi was an extra-cost option (except later on the Trans Am).

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Short answer: The two-letter axle code is stamped on the driver’s-side axle tube, facing the rear, roughly 6″ from the differential cover (near/to the left of the brake clip). It’s often rusty — expect to wire-brush/sand to read it.

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Short answer: Not from 2.56 to 3.23 or 3.73 with your existing differential case. Per the factory service manual, there were three case types (by ring-gear mounting): one for 2.56/2.78, one for 2.93/3.08/3.23, and one for 3.36/3.55/3.90/4.33 (the 3.90/4.33 used only the 4-pinion locking case).

So from a 2.56 case you can only move within 2.56/2.78. To get 3.23, find a 3.08/3.23 carrier (not uncommon) or a complete axle. The aftermarket (e.g., Richmond) may offer gears that work with your case, but likely not past 3.23. Get a factory service manual (good reprints exist).

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Short answer: Swapping gears to switch between “highway” and “around-town” ratios is possible but impractical — a proper gear change needs skill (setting backlash and tooth contact), special tools (dial indicator), and time (~$250 gears + $100 tools, or ~$250 shop labor; a weekend the first time). For two ratios, a second complete rear end (faster to swap) or an overdrive transmission makes far more sense.

  • Overdrive route: a 200-4R (auto) or T5/Tremec (manual) lowers highway rpm — more up front, but cheaper than several gear changes. Another member’s trick: a taller tire on a spare set of wheels for road trips.
  • Rear-end interchange: first-gens use an 8.20″ 10-bolt unique to Pontiac/Buick (a corporate Chevy 8.20’s gears won’t interchange). From 1970, GM went to one 8.50″ 10-bolt (Nova/Apollo/Omega/Ventura ’70–74 and 2nd-gen F-bodies) — tall gears are plentiful there; it fits with relocated spring perches and a unique rear U-joint.
  • Beware: other 10-bolts (7.50″ late-’70s/’80s, 8.875″ trucks) exist — know exactly what gearset you’re buying. And correct your speedo gear after any change.

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Short answer: Two excellent write-ups for the 2nd-gen-into-1st-gen swap: the Classical Pontiac restoration section, and member “geebjen’s” detailed report (angelfire.com/on/geebjen/rearswap.html). Members confirm both are accurate.

  • Keep the first-gen parking-brake cables and bracket — the 2nd-gen cables won’t work.
  • On perches: one member re-used the 2nd-gen perches by grinding them off and moving them closer together (they’re wide enough to take the first-gen’s angled springs) — note they sit ~3/8″ taller, lowering the car that much. Others recommend first-gen perches to keep the correct angle. Either way, measure carefully (a drilled plank with the front spring brackets bolted to it makes a handy fixture) and set pinion/yoke angle with the car’s weight on the springs.
  • Watch perch spacing — one shop welded them ~1/2–1″ too far apart, putting the shock mount against the wheel rim.
  • Driveshaft: you may find a junkyard shaft that bolts right in — but a used shaft is an unknown (bent/bad U-joints); given the safety stakes (members recounted U-joint failures that wrecked cars), cutting/balancing/new joints (~$110) is a sound investment, especially on a high-power car.
  • Typical costs: perches ~$75, driveshaft shorten/balance ~$110. Check the donor ratio — some posi rears have tall 2.73 gears.

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Short answer: You can change the upper rear main rope seal with the engine in the car by rotating it out with the crank (no crank removal), but getting the pan off in-car is a miserable fight — most members agree it’s better to pull the engine and do it right.

With the bellhousing/flywheel already off, the engine pulls in ~4 hours with two people; the seal swap is then 1–2 hours, and you can reinstall the clutch from the bench (avoiding the awful under-car alignment). While you’re in there, do the rod and main bearings (a bent cotter pin “T” in the oil journal rolls them in/out without removing the crank) and the 30-year-old oil pump — seals usually start leaking because wear lets the part move, so address the cause too. Use engine assembly lube.

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Short answer: Per the 1967 Firebird supplement, the eight axle ratios are identified by a two-letter code stamped on the rear of the LH axle tube:

1967 Firebird Axle Codes
Open Ratio Limited-Slip
XB 2.56 UN
XC 2.78 UP
XD 2.93 UR
XE 3.08 US
XF 3.23 UT
XG 3.36 UV
XH 3.55 UW
3.90 UX
Note: there’s no “XL” Firebird axle code — the 4.33 ratio used “YL,” and only 13 1967 Firebirds got the 4.33 (none Ram Air). (“XL” was a ’65 GTO / Camaro code.)

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Short answer: An A-body (e.g., 1969 LeMans) rear can be made to fit a 1967, but it’s a lot of bother for a 10-bolt: A-bodies use rear coil springs, so the housing is wider and you’d cut off the coil mounts and weld on leaf-spring perches (and narrow it or run offset wheels).

  • Width myth: members who measured 2nd-gen F-body rears found the overall track is the same ~60″ as a first-gen — it’s the welded-on spring perches that sit ~2¾” wider (cut and re-weld them).
  • 1967 specifically: 1968–69 and 2nd-gen used multi-leaf springs, so on a mono-leaf 1967 you’d convert to multi-leaf or reuse your old mono-leaf perches (different depth).
  • A 2nd-gen swap also needs the driveshaft shortened, careful pinion-angle setup, and possibly a big-and-little U-joint (if from a TH400 car). Typical add-on costs: perches ~$25, driveshaft ~$35, U-joint ~$18.
  • Some go to the trouble for a 12-bolt GTO rear.

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Short answer: A 2nd-gen F-body rear (the 8.5″ 10-bolt) drops into a first-gen and is stronger, cheaper, and more available than the first-gen 8.2″ — but you must relocate the spring perches, match the transmission/U-joint type, set pinion angle, and shorten the driveshaft.

  • Width: measured overall only ~1/4″ wider (1/8″ per side) — not the “1–2 inches” often claimed.
  • Multi vs mono leaf: 1968–81 are multi-leaf; a 1967 mono-leaf car needs its old perches reused or a multi-leaf conversion.
  • Spring perches: the 2nd-gen perches sit ~2¾” farther out, are ~1/2″ taller (lowers the car that much), and (unlike first-gen) have no built-in angle — so cut them off and weld on first-gen perches, ideally setting the angle with the car’s weight on the springs. Set pinion angle carefully.
  • U-joint/driveshaft: match the donor to your trans (350 vs 400 use different U-joint sizes; may need a big/little U-joint); the 2nd-gen sits ~1″ longer axle-to-U-joint, so shorten/replace the driveshaft (and refresh U-joints + trans output seal while you’re there).
  • Brakes: parts are essentially the same — order them as the donor year (e.g., 1977); use the donor backing plates/drums; but get brake lines for your original first-gen year so routing matches, and move the rear-cover-bolt line bracket over before installing.
  • Also: replace cheap seals (local parts store, ~$1–2), check bearings, recalibrate the speedo for the new ratio, and pull the gas tank as a precaution (especially when changing springs — you’ll likely torch the old bolts).

Parts to have ready:

  • Rear end: seals, bearings (optional), brake lines & parts, new posi tag, gear oil + limited-slip additive, cover gasket, backing-plate bolts/nuts.
  • Swap: U-bolts & nuts, T-bolts & nuts, upper/lower spring pads, trans output-shaft seal.
  • New springs: front eye bushings, front bracket bolts & clip nuts (Ames carries both), eye bushing bolt/nut, shackles/bolts/nuts, rear shackle bushings.
  • Gas tank: straps, attaching-bolt kit, tank-to-body anti-squeak kit.

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Short answer: For 1967–68, ordering the Ram Air engine made the Saf-T-Track axle (code 361) mandatory. For 1969 that prerequisite doesn’t appear on the Trans Am or 400 H.O. (with or without the Ram Air hood) — so if your 1969 documentation doesn’t list code 361, that’s how it was.

All 1969 Trans Ams came standard with a posi rear (and all had Ram Air engines), along with variable-ratio power steering, power discs, and a 1″ sway bar.

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Short answer: A click from one rear wheel during slow tight turns is common on GM posi units — it’s typically the clutch cones momentarily slipping/grabbing (and that jolt can ring through the driveshaft). It’s usually not alarming if backlash and pattern are good.

First try the cure: add two bottles of GM posi additive (not generic), do several sharp left/right turns and some backing up to circulate it; if it persists, change the gear oil and add two more bottles. Also check the transmission output-shaft bushing (4-speed cars wear these ~40k miles under hard use) as another possible source.

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Short answer: A rear thump that fades at speed — check, in order:

  1. Broken spring.
  2. Loose or broken U-bolts.
  3. Worn U-joints (replace).
  4. The one you don’t want: worn carrier bearings letting the ring and pinion teeth contact (the carrier seats back in place at higher speed).

(A new, balanced, matched-size tire makes a balance issue less likely, but it’s worth confirming.)

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Short answer: 1968s didn’t have traction bars. For 1967, what you got depended on engine, transmission, and rear-axle type:

1967 Firebird Traction Bars
Engine / Trans Bars
OHC-6 1-bbl auto None (unless 3.23 or higher axle)
OHC-6 1-bbl manual RH side
OHC-6 4-bbl auto RH side
OHC-6 4-bbl manual Both sides
V-8 2 & 4-bbl auto RH side
V-8 2 & 4-bbl manual Both sides
The rear-axle type also factored in — a 4-pinion rear (open or posi) got both bars/radius rods. So a 326 2-bbl convertible with two bars is plausible.

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