Frequently Asked Questions

Short answer: Despite the name, the “bird” isn’t etched into the glass — it’s a silkscreen-type paint that sits slightly above the surface and can be scraped off. If it were truly etched it would be engraved below the surface, not raised. Check yours: if you can feel it standing proud, it’s the painted type.

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Short answer: 1968 convertible wiper arms are different lengths left vs. right and are stamped “RH CONV” / “LH CONV” on the back (just past the casing). Measured on an original 1968 convertible: RH 12″, LH 11.75″ (about 1/4″–1/2″ shorter on the left). Reproduction arms are both the same length, unlike originals.

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Short answer: The 1968 Custom Trim option (554) included: Custom seat covers (Morrokide + stitched knit vinyl), custom molded door and quarter trim panels, the assist bar above the glovebox, dual horns, deluxe wheel covers, deluxe steering wheel, custom pedal trim, front & rear wheel-opening moldings, drip-rail moldings (coupes), and windshield-pillar garnish moldings.

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Bulletin 68-I-24 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 7F (Two-Speed Automatic Transmission). Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Two-Speed Automatic Transmission — Component Identification.

Short answer: This bulletin provides a comprehensive component identification table for the Two-Speed Automatic Transmission used in 1966–1968 Pontiac and Tempest models, listing the vacuum modulator, governor, valve body, spacer plate, converter assembly, and downshift timing valve part numbers along with their transmission model usage and identification markings.

¹ Service part number 1378257 is common to all 1967–68 transmission service usage.

² For service replacement, use 9776991 converter, identified by a Violet paint daub.

Bulletin 68-I-59 — Pontiac Motor Division Dealer Service Information Bulletin, Section 2, dated April 18, 1968. Attention: Service Manager.

Subject: Positioning of Inside Rear View Mirror — All Series.

Short answer: The 1968 mirror support has two ball sockets — one behind the mirror and one at the upper end of the bracket — allowing the entire assembly to swing fore, aft, and sideways. Many owners are unaware of this feature; dealers should inform customers who have difficulty positioning their mirror.

Short answer: There were differences — original 1968 door glass has a straight line across the bottom and 1969 has a curve (not visible with the door assembled) — but the July 1969 parts book lists the replacement glass as the same for both years. The “bird emblem” glass on some 1968s is generally the straight (early) style, not the later curved one.

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Short answer: The “bird” logo on some 1968 front side glass is a special factory glass, but why some cars got it remains a mystery — a multi-year Registry survey found it across too many configurations to establish a pattern.

Documented original bird-glass cars include 400s and 350s, with and without A/C, with and without the Custom trim option, coupes and convertibles, clear and tinted glass, automatics and 4-speeds. (An earlier observation that they were all 400s was later contradicted by 350 examples.) The feature appears on early 1968 cars — the latest known build is around the first week of March 1968 — and may have been dropped for production cost. (See also the “Etched Bird Glass” FAQ on what the marking actually is.)

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Short answer: All three years technically had different glass. 1968 and 1969 look identical installed, but the concealed bottom edge differs — 1968 is straight across, 1969 has a curve. In practice they’re often interchangeable: the July 1969 parts book lists the 1968 and 1969 replacement glass as the same.

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Short answer: Sluggish power windows that draw a lot of current are almost always mechanical, not electrical — the grease has turned to a clay-like substance and/or the rollers are worn. High current draw comes from high mechanical resistance, so clean and re-grease the mechanism and check (replace) worn rollers before sending motors out for repair. The easiest access is with the quarter panels off.

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Short answer: If pressing on the switch makes the window work, the culprit is usually the wiring connector, not the switch — the hairpin-type connector loses tension after overheating (from a poor connection or a binding window/motor).

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Short answer: Hard-to-raise power windows are usually old grease that’s turned to tar, not an adjustment. Remove the motor unit, open it up, clean out the hardened grease (carb cleaner), and re-grease — they work much better afterward.

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Short answer: A rear window that won’t roll is usually hardened grease. On a 1968/69, pull the jamb vent, spray the tracks and regulator drive gear with Liquid Wrench, and work the window up and down until it moves; then lube the tracks and regulator with white lithium grease (both come in aerosol cans).

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Short answer: A rear quarter window that needs help usually has a worn or broken roller — there are three, and the middle one is the usual culprit — or a track that’s out of position. Replace the roller (available from a Pontiac dealer or the catalog companies).

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Short answer: Repair a rusted rear-window channel by fabricating new channel pieces from 22-gauge sheet steel and welding them in.

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Short answer: The glass is set in adhesive, so you cut around it. Auto-glass shops use a special L-shaped blade tool, but it’s an art — a dull blade or a careless twist can crack the glass.

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Short answer: A sticking or off-track rear quarter window is almost always hardened 30-year-old grease and/or a broken plastic roller. Clean out the old grease, re-lube the track and rollers with white lithium grease, and replace any broken rollers (about $3 each from Classic Industries).

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Short answer: Rear windows that fall forward when lowered usually have a worn/broken roller — especially the inner wheel that rides in the slot — plus hardened grease. Replace the bad roller(s), clean off all old grease, re-lube with white lube, and work the glass up and down to spread it.

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Short answer: You can do it yourself and save money (the glass runs about $150). The key is to bed the glass properly: use urethane sealer between the glass and moldings to keep moisture, leaves, and dirt out and prevent rust. For the header molding, gray “DuxSeal” (a clay-like sealer from Home Depot or an electrical-supply house, in 1- or 5-lb clumps) works well.

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Short answer: There were two factory options: a Tinted Windshield (windshield only), or Tinted Glass (all) — which meant all the side glass including the quarter windows. A single tinted door window by itself wouldn’t be original to either option.

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Short answer: The rear-window guide mounts on three (possibly four) studs that let you adjust the window’s pitch (to make it parallel to the front glass) and its front-to-back tilt — it takes patience but it’s doable. First confirm the window moves smoothly; a broken or popped-off roller (often the center one, about $10 special-ordered from a Pontiac dealer) can throw off the alignment. There’s little adjustment in the front windows. Access by removing the back seat, armrest, and side covers.

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Short answer: First-gen Firebirds have no rubber molding around the windshield. Both the front and rear glass were set with butyl rubber tape (a tar-like sealant) — modern glass installers use even better sealants today.

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Short answer: A washer pump that runs whenever the wipers are on (without pressing the button) is usually a mechanical problem in the pump, not electrical — typically a worn gear or the pump needing a slight positional adjustment. There isn’t much adjustment room, but it’s a mechanical fix; swapping the wiper/washer switch won’t cure it.

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