Q: Rally II Wheel Fit
Seems I got a pair for 1968 +/-, and a pair from the early 70’s, when GM made the holes smaller. Am I up a creek or is there some way to get caps that match for these things. HELP!!
A: There’s a lot more to Rally II wheels than the responses have indicated. There were probably 30 or 40 varieties of this wheel, likely a half-dozen in just the 14×6 size! The ONLY way to know what you have is check the 2-letter code on the wheel next to the valve stem, and post it here for us to help you. There were also some numbers stamped near the valve, but these were date codes. The larger center hole is a non-issue (the caps will fit), but you need to make sure of wheel offsets. Some later 14×6 wheels were used on Ventura II’s, the Nova body clone of 71-74 including the last year of the GTO. They have different offsets than the correct wheels for your car. Even in 1968 alone, there was the JC code for Firebirds, and a JA code for Tempest/LeMans/GTO. The later 71-74 wheels were coded something with N or M as the second letter, I can’t remember if there was an HN/HM or something else. I know there were HF wheels I have that are 15×7 with a 4-3/4″ bolt pattern used on the A and G body cars from 73-77. Speaking of 15 inch wheels, there were also 15×6 and 15×7 for full-sized cars with a 5 inch wheel stud pattern! I even know of 4 different 14×7 wheels with different sized center holes that all have the same offset, from the JK code for 1969 Firebird and Grand Prix, JM for 70 same cars except Trans Am, JS for 71 and KS for 72. The 70 Trans Am had a special wheel, looked like a center section from a 14 inch wheel, with a deep-dropped center 15 inch rim, that would not accept any trim rings (Olds did something similar in 75 that had a ring that would retro-fit).
A: Thanks for response. I went and checked, I’ll give you the codes both inside and out. Here goes; one wheel has JC outside and JJ inside. The next has KT out and JK in. Then, JA out and JK in. The last has HN out and JK in. Now as for offsets, if I remember correctly, the offset is measured on the inside of the rim, from the inside edge down to the bolt holes. I checked this with a straight edge across the inside rim, then measured down to the holes vertically. After checking this, I found 2 of the rims measured 4 inches and the other 2 measured 4 1/4 inches. Man what a mess this is turning into. Didn’t have clue as to how many variations there were. If I measured correctly, how do I know if I can use them or not, now that I know that the caps will fit? Or do I have to go to the car, pull a rim, and measure the drum? All I’m sure of is that the drums are stock.
A: Guys, I would suggest we all get on the SAME PAGE!!! The code NEXT to the VALVE STEM is the one the parts book uses! The code on the INSIDE is the RIM type, but the one OUTSIDE is the WHEEL CODE for the ENTIRE WHEEL assembly!! That means the RIM, the CENTER and the OFFSET! Please stick with the WHEEL CODE on the outside, and ignore the RIM type!
A: Yup, Rally wheels seem so simple at first.
But that 1/4″ width isn’t really a big deal.
About the only time you need to worry about brake clearance is with disk brakes, and even then many of the 14″ variants clear those.
You are safe with backspacing varying from 4″ to 4.5″, as long as you don’t go crazy with tire sizes. And since these are only 14×6, you are limited there anyway to nothing much wider than a 225/60-14. That tire, on that wheel, should fit your car. A 215/60-14 might fit the wheel a bit better, and that will definately not have clearance problems with your car, even with that rear sag you mentioned earlier, but may appear a bit short. Going to a 70 series would get you taller tires, that might fit that narrow wheel better.
Key Words: Ralley II, Rally II, Rallye II, Wheel Codes, Rim Date Codes
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Content last modified: February 24, 2014 at 10:07 am