Refurbishing Suspensions

Short answer: A member’s front+rear refresh on a 1968 400 (new springs, bushings, front ball joints): the result was about an inch more ride height front and rear, tight steering, and no more bottoming out. Notes and one gotcha below.

  • Front: standard MOOG bushings/ball joints and Classic Industries coil springs; a machine shop did the control-arm work. Lining the lower control arms up with the frame on reassembly is the hard part.
  • Rear: Classic Industries leaf springs and mounting kit. The new spring’s extra bottom mounting plate made the stack too thick, so he removed it; he reused the original (shorter) U-bolts and the more-secure cinch-type shackle nuts rather than the kit’s plain longer ones. All bolts must be torqued with the car on the ground — a lift or pit helps.
  • Stick with plain rubber (GM-style) bushings over urethane/solid mounts for a streetable ride.

The gotcha: a loud, very-low-frequency road noise at 30–40 mph turned out to be the new shackles rubbing the body — their bolt holes were ~1/4″ farther apart, so the bottom edge contacted the panel below the rear bumper.

Any proposed updates, changes, pictures, and/or corrections, please use our comment section below (may need to click on permalink to access comments feature). Information is subject to change and offered as is without any warranties or guarantees. Please review our Term's Of Use for more information.

Content last modified: June 13, 2026 at 10:06 am


Categories: Suspension and Steering - All, Suspension and Steering - Suspension

← Frequently Asked Questions

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *