My plans are to leave the old wheelhouses,quarters and tailpan intact for now. I will weld a brace across the tailpan, then run supports from it to my shop floor. I will cut out some of the trunk floor behind the back seat as well as the front foot or so of the frame rails so I can put my floor pan in from underneath. After welding in the floor to the rockers and toeboards for structural stability I was going to cut ot the rest of the trunk floor and frame-rails. From here I will replace the inner fenderwells, put full trunk in from underneath, and then new framerails. I would then cut out the old quarters and do the outer wheelwell and install the new quarter (one side at a time). Now for the disclaimer, I have never done a project this indepth before either (quarters and doorskins mostly so far)so any advice would be appreciated. If you like I will try and get a few photo's and will give you updates on how it comes together.
in your quote of your process, you will have things in the way of your installation! the bracing the tail pan from the frame rails in the rear will be ok but you will not get the in with the rear valance in place! i know because i pulled a full pan out of a car that had been temporarily installed into it. the rear inner valance was a real b!@th to get around! we fought for 45 minutes to get it past the outer wheelhouses enough to drop it and force it out of the trunk well area. it didnt like coming out but it had no choice. i said it was comin out and thus it did. bent the forward lip a little but got it to co-operate. you will not be able to do this very well the way you plan it.
if your not replacing the rear valance i would change my plan of attack! possibly start with the 1/4 and wheelhouses on one side. replace the outer and 1/4 of one side to have a solid reference point. while your in there you can replace the trunk or not! make sure you brace EVERYTHING so nothing moves! i just got an idea and will use it in my process. if you are replacing full 1/4's you shouldnt go all the way to the of the lead seem. its a real PITA! cut the sail panel closer to the body line to stay out of this area! it will save ALOT of time! if you pm me i can send you my address and maybe even a few pictures of what i've done to show you how much is involved.
when i was in the lead seem, i couldnt get the spot welds to break on the inside of the roof so i now have to replace my roof in this process. had to from the start but was going to save it. now im in for the long haul!
Andy
due to budget cutbacks, the light at the end of the tunnel has been disconnected for non payment.
