I figured on trying the original pinion shim as a starting point, but this axle has never been driven with the current gear set. I have no idea of the competance where they were set up. They guy who bought these parts and put this axle together had the setup done at a shop near Atco, where he planned to race. Then he bought a completed Nova, (smart move IMHO, the Nova looked pretty good) and that changed his plans for this axle assembly. The parts are all new except for the housing, so I don't want to beat on the new parts with a hammer and punch. I would like to use the pinion bearing over again if it is really new as promised. I could grind out a test bearing, but that's extra expense and I will still need to press the final one on.

A new crush sleeve is only $10, so I figure on leaving it out during temporary checking with careful settings of the pinion nut for bearing preload. Once I get a propper pattern, I figure on uinstalling a new crush sleeve just so I never visit the problem again. I know people tap on the side to make it longer for a second try, but I want to do this "by the book".

I think the side to side carrier adjustment might be the easiest part of the job. Am I correct that I can swap the ring gear without removing the carrier bearings? I assume there's no problem with that if I keep things clean. I'm more concerned with the trial and error with the pinion shim. I understand one wants to hit that within two-thou. One of the guys over on Camaros.net who did axles as a business said it was all about obtaining the pattern and he had not measured pinion depth with instruments after setting up a few of them that way. He stated the pattern was the holy grail for setting up a new gear set.

I figure someone who's done many of these would look at the first pattern with a test bearing and the shim thickness would be pretty much on the money, just from experience of reading patterns. On the other hand, I figure on trying all day until I get the required pattern spot-on.

I figure the pinion bearing will be off and on a number of times. So that is the crux of my question.... what is the cheapest way to gently remove and install this bearing for repeated trial fitting? Is there any tool cheaper than a harbor freight press and a bearing splitter?

I'll add to my question with another concern. The engine break-in should be achieved at moderate and high throttle to let the rings seat in properly before the crosshatch pattern is worn down. Some accounts say this takes less than an hour. Then the chance to seat rings has passed. This is at odds with advice for breaking in a new rear gear set, where instructions are to idle twenty minutes with the wheels off the ground, then drive in circles, let it cool and that sort of thing. If you build both as a restoration project, what do you do?