How fast you want to go depends on one thing...$$$.

As Quenton stated, should go with checking the rods first and resizing. Scat rods or equivalent for NOS applications. Must have tight clearances on rings as well. I highly suggest building up the lower end AKA "bulletproofing" the lower end. Honestly, I build all my motors with aftermarket rods. Not that stock rods are bad, just thatI prefer not to throw a rod, drop a valve into my $1200 stock looking, ported Pontiac heads.

I HIGHLY recommend to anyone building or having a motor built to not scrimp on the shortblock. Top end (heads, intake and carb not as crucial initially) But make sure a valve job, guide clearance check and springs are replaced or checked.

Then after the motor is assembled and you run it for a few months and get tired of it, have Cliff tweak the carb (less than $300) and have the distributor recurved ($1-150) After that, 60 minutes to remove heads and intake for a $4-600 street/strip port work and port matched to intake. I highly recommend investing in a set of Ferrea valves at this point.

This "pump gas" issue is difficult to work around as there is only a handful of good heads in the 9 to 9.7 CR range without milling the crap off the decks. A 72 CC large valve head (12,13,16,48,62,670) will yield a 10 to 1 ratio. 64's are 87 CC but very expensive and would only get you 8.7 to 1. 6X-4's are 91 CC but you have to mill the behesus out of them...to maybe 82 CC just to get a decently responding motor. Milling can get expensive as you have to mill 4 sides to match the intake after 40 thousandths.

I say get the 72 CC heads, have them ported, sharp edges removed from chamber (reduces detonation factor) tweak carb and distributor and it is unlikely (possible, but unlikely) that you will have any detonation at 10 to 1. If so, blend with 104-110 octane.

I set up a 428 with milled #48 RA III heads at 66 CC which is just at 11 to 1. I did what I posted above and I do not have issues with 94 octane. If racing, I blend 20 to 30% just to be safe.

Electric water pump is better left out for now. maybe a 10-15 hp gain. Lets get the basics done first.

Rear gear..3.55 to 3.73. Eaton POSI I swear by..rebuildable if needed and very nice for the $$$. Aftermarket axles, Moser makes them..$250 pair. Rear gear, Jegs or Summitt sell the complete rering kit for a nice price. You can fine 8.2 BOP units on Ebay for $299 new. $140 less that catalog.

Top end, RPM intake, cam, lifters and springs. Rhoads will be fine as well.
Cliff with Q-Jet without question. You need to tell him everything about the car and setup.

Headers can be 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 prefer 4 tube Headmans.

I posted on another similar issue today..before rhetoric sets in, read that too...Once you get the fun going with true tried avenues, then experiment with other heads and such.