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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 626
C
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 626
Thanks guys. Agreed on most accounts....solenoid in trunk for safety, and I absolutely will fusible link the main 8 gauge. I've read the MAD electrical stuff all over already...frankly I was hoping to buy the entire setup from him. Have been trying to call the place for the past WEEK, multiple times per day. CONSTANT busy signal, occasional ringing with no answer/no recording. Can't leave a message, there is no way to order parts from their website, prices all out of date/unrealistically below cost, no response to my email, and several excuses printed on various pages of their site that they are trying to upgrade various things but apparently aren't getting much done, since I recall reading those same pages a YEAR ago...

To make a long story longer, they've absolutely lost my business and I wouldn't recommend them to anyone....and I even wonder if they still are in business at all. I haven't purchased all my cables yet, but I have another source found and will buy from them instead of from non-responsive MAD.

ANYWHO>>>>back on topic.

With regards to the Pertronix unit wanting full voltage, this was my initial thinking...no need for resistor with their thingy in place adn no points. Oddly, the instructions that came with my Pertronix specifically stated "do not remove ballast resistor if equipped".

Hmmm. I can't fathom why. Their own literature says the Ignitor has an operating range of 8 to 16 volts. In my reasoning, more is better...why shouldn't I go ahead and give it full voltage in the event I'm attempting a restart someday with a slightly weak battery? I found the Pertronix instructions on that aspect very weird.

Speaking of...I'm pretty sure that I do want to remove it, but does anyone know where the heck IS the ballast resistor in these cars? Is the ballast resistor possibly the wire itself? I have a 1968 service manaual, and read the wiring diagram, and there is absolutely NO resistor drawn on the wiring diagram. Yet if you read the ignition section is states that the coil gets power "thru the resistance" when in the "on" position. And clearly a points car NEEDS the resistor, so it's gotta be there somewhere.

If I wanted to remove it, where exactly do you suspect I would find it?

Suppose I'll just probe around with a volt meter and see if it's the wire itself...

Assuming I put full battery voltage to the coil, with Pertronix Ignitor, it seems to me the original yellow wire at the Delco solenoid can be simply removed and elimated entirely...

Thanks! Anyone reading this please chime in if you think I'm driving myself off a cliff! I'm always learning....


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Entire Thread
Subject Posted By Posted
Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question crazecars 04/25/12 05:33 AM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question bigchief 04/25/12 05:47 AM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question crazecars 04/25/12 02:37 PM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question 68ragtop455 04/25/12 07:52 PM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question quick68bird 04/25/12 09:33 PM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question 68ragtop455 04/25/12 11:34 PM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question JMC 04/25/12 11:56 PM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question quick68bird 04/26/12 12:10 AM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question crazecars 04/26/12 12:23 AM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question Firebob 04/26/12 01:40 AM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question bigchief 04/26/12 04:02 AM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question Amervo 04/26/12 05:49 AM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question 68ragtop455 04/26/12 05:53 AM
Re: Ford solenoid/trunk mount battery question crazecars 04/26/12 02:47 PM

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