It looks like a failure to communicate. Universally accepted nomenclature would help. The acd starter has a starter solenoid, the other one is referred to as a remote solenoid, and there seems to be confusion what wires do and do not go on the solenoid and remote solenoid.

Minus the welding cable I made everything myself for free using ‘shop supplies’ at work. The alternator feed wire, also 8 guage, has fusible links on both ends.

The solenoid needs to be bussed, well should be bussed because you are defeating the purpose of a remote solenoid without bussing it; as a result, there is only one wire coming off the solenoid, the starter cable. I used 00 welding cable, and it cost $1.75 a foot, and that was paid for with 1988 dollars. With scrap copper prices where they are, that same cable has to cost at least 3x as much. Terminals are swaged and soldered.

Here’s a shot of the copper bussbar that I fabricated; the bussbar is pulled to the side to better illustrate it. The starter wire bolts against the terminal, and the bussbar rests on top, and very-berry shiny on the backside of the buss. I cannot get a shot of the trunk-mount solenoid because I have the car taped up, and it was installed too long ago for me to remember what goes where on the solenoid.

You want the battery mounted on the right side to assist with the natural dig-in on the right sid of the car during launch. The claim was that the shift was equal to moving the engine back on its mounts by 3 inches. The claim seemed to be a stretch, but when I put the car in gear, I could feel the difference just easing away. Total vehicle additude, handeling, and hook up feels like the engine has moved back that much. Amazing!

<I dont see why you need the Ford solenoid in the trunk.>

Because the goal of a remote solenoid is to disable the solenoid, and the buss bar disables it. As I said before, if you don’t disable the solenoid, it defeats the purpose of a remote solenoid. And the remote will work if the starter is wired in the traditional way, but it would increase, not decrease resistance.

The location of the solenoid makes a difference. The loss of amperage happens at the solenoid. Tests show that if you get the amperage loss out of its system the moment it leaves the battery, there are more available cranking amps at the starter lead, than if the solenoid is located closer to the starter.

As for Mad, they are just like Dougs and Pypes. Just like I wouldn't buy the others' obvious substandard product, I woudn't have bought anything from Mad 20 years ago.

Keep in mind, that mine is a 9, often, a different puppy. I did babysit an 8 for about 20 months. The car must have been in lub wif me because I was the only person who could get the car to start. (You have to know the song, and keep in beat with the gas, and the throttle motion is like manipulating a feather. I have been singing along with the song longer than some current owners have been alive. ANd if you don't know the song, it will flood lamf.)

Anyway, the 8 I babysat had what would have been a Mopar ballast resister if it were on a Mopar, so it would be a safe guess that the item I saw under the hood was the ballast resister. Whether or not this was factory, it was located on the firewall, just to the right of the center of the firewall.

I cannot say for sure, but sometime duing my 35 years of a sick obsession, I think I recall hearing about people removing them; simply, they splice the wires together. Keep in mind that I think I recall hearing something along these lines. I don't know how you could verify it because the internet is so overan with idiots, none of whom have a f/ing clue what they talk about.