I am on my 3rd Mallory Unilite. Unilites have their data plates afixed to the side of the main body and it usually ends up on the back side after you install it.
I have found that they either work great or they don't work at all. There is no "in between" when they are missing or something. How do I know? Because I have fried 2 modules before. The very 1st one I accidently grounded the distributor when I pulled it out to shift it 1 tooth to get it in properly.
The 2nd one died in the middle of a road trip. Just quit. I talked to Mallory and they said these modules are sensitive to voltage fluctuations. So now I always put in their recommended in-line voltage filter and these systems run fantastically.
Another thing - Mallory Unilites like about 6 volts to them. The factory resistor wire is perfect. Otherwise you need a ballast resistor. They will not live long with a full 12 volts to them. And yes, the Mallory modules are pricey (about $90).
So I had my chats with the Mallory tech guys and then just followed all their advice to the letter. I swear by them now cause I never have to deal with points and their slow performance degredations.
Have you looked at any of the spark plugs? They could be old, wrong temp range, bad gaps...
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI