I am now using the 30 amp. Unless you owned and serviced your vehicle exclusively and have checked the engine bay wiring minutely most of the fusible links have long since fused and been bypassed/replaced with something by somebody, somewhere.
As far as depending on 40 year old fusible links, they are not what they used to be and finding and repairing old brittle wiring is not as much fun as some people think.
This was true on my 350 conv and my 400 coup. that wiring is OLD.
Agreed entirely. I've rewired about 80% of my 68. Including replacing all the fusible links, as well as adding a few due to relocating my battery to trunk and other mods. And my car's wiring, like most, was one terrifying and brittle hack job before I fixed it.
As for where they are supposed to be, what color, etc...I do not feel confident in describing the proper colors and locations for a 69, as I do not own one and haven't studied the wiring diagrams. 69's have quite different wiring routing when compared to the 67/68's. The only thing I will say with confidence is that conventional widsom says a fusible link should be 4 gauges smaller than the wire it protects. So, for example, a 10 gauge wire needs a 14 gauge link to protect it.
Certainly they're all marked in the service manual wiring diagrams, and that would be the best resource to use I believe.
And despite my essay above, I don't mean to imply there would be a problem created by dropping a fuse or breaker in place of the shorting bar. Clearly double-protection on the circuit will hurt nothing but originality, and it would add only a very mild complication in trouble-shooting in the event of a circuit failure.
