So the conclusion is that the shop used a cheapola pump causing the excessive current draw? That figures because every shop I know of bills you the most for the cheapest part they can find. I'm glad the new better quality pump solved the problem. I am at the stage of wiring up the system for the top and the power seat. So if normal operating amperage is 20, the factory used a 30 amp breaker, would I be prudent in using a 40 amp waterproof marine grade breaker on the engine side near the battery on a dedicated feed line? I am making an 8 gauge feeder from the battery into the passenger compartment, which will split into two 10 gauge lines, and serve the top and seat with their own 30 amp breakers. I will also be using a dedicated ground wire because I don't trust 55 year old sheet metal. I don't intend to operate the seat and top at the same time, but things happen. I figured a 40 amp breaker would handle the 30 amp loads without tripping, yet trip quickly if necessary. I am still using the relay system to take the load off the dash switch. But I also intend to mount a separate switch back near the pump. I found a 50 amp DC switch that I can use as an emergency switch or for troubleshooting. Plus being 50 amp DC specific, I can bypass the relays and power the top with raw voltage from the feeder lines. That way even if my relays fail I can still get the top to work. But the most important information was that when the motor dragged, amperage went up to almost 40 amps. That would trip the 30 amp breaker and maybe even the 40 amp unit. That points to the necessity of maintaining the motor/pump, and being cognizant of any laboring or slowing down. If it stays as warm this winter as it did last year this should be do-able.