Seems like Im going from one problem to the next lately...
I had my radiator in to get cleaned and checked, and the old guy said the radiator was bad (multiple leaks), and recommended a new one since the old one would cost almost as much to fix.
Anyone have a good recommendation for where to find a decent replacement, without breaking the bank? I tried Autozone, but they've twice had the order come back either damaged, or the wrong make/model, so I got my money back. Obviously a 3 core minimum, 4 core would be better...
Any on line places worth considering or should I keep hunting locally?
Thanks!
ps: Soon I'll be chatting about tilt steering woes since my new keys for the ignition tumbler are having problems connecting to the internal locking mechanism...arghh...
Pontiacs have a reputation for running hot. From what I have read over the years, I decided to go with an aluminum radiator for my project. I splurged for a Rodney Red, but I have heard that the Griffin aluminum radiators work pretty well
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
ive been told to steer clear of the aluminum radiators due to there lower cooling capacity! believe it or not, they actually dont cool as much compared tot he standard 4 core brass/copper units. the aluminum tubes are over 1" in diameter to provide better flow but cool less because of the tube size. less air flowing over the hot coolant. ive read and found that the 4 core a/c units offer the most optimum cooling. these standard brass/copper units have smaller cooling tubes(3/8") allowing more air to flow over the hot coolant versus the aluminums. the standard copper/brass units cost half as much and offer almost the same efficiency as the aluminum units when compared. this is again from what ive read and been told by the experts! ultimately its your decision but i would go the 4 core copper/brass unit with a/c. the added benefit is negated by the price tag and if done right your standard unit can/will coll the same or better!
Andy
due to budget cutbacks, the light at the end of the tunnel has been disconnected for non payment.
Two words, Desert Cooler. It's from Ames, and it's correct down to the bottom clips for the fan shroud. The only thing missing is the Harrison name to be 100% correct. Ames part # FP170 or FP171 depending on your trans type. Both $309 + S&H and worth every penny. My convertible is cooled by one, and I'm very pleased with the fit and quality.
I replaced a perfectly good Modine with a Rodney Red. I'm in St Paul MN if you want it, $40. I'll have to be honest and tell you the Rodney Red aluminum is the way to go, keeps mine running at 180 even in the hottest conditions.
Been down this road too many times. Alluminum is the only answer in my opinion. I've had the 4 core brass, brand new and still would not keep it in a safe range. And to be honest, even with a high end allum it still runs a bit warm...
Take old radiator and reuse the old tanks and brackets and have it recored.
You live in Wisconsin, not particularly hot or humid. Buying an aluminum radiator is a band aid to the real issue which will remain unmonitored and unresolved. (Thermo wrong, poor fan spacing, slipping fan, incorrect pully, bad cap, rotted or poor divider plate spacing, wrong depth ion shroud).
Lets look at the principle here.
Now he has a new shiny aluminum radiator which works, but not as well as if he had fixed the problem causing the overheating initially. Could it be "just" the radiator and blocked off/clogged fins? Sure, but unlikely.
You lose 1-5% a year in efficiency from a cooling system from coolant breakdown to degredation of radiator from crap hitting fins, blockage etc. Your nominal running temp should be 200, everyone likes 180 so we will use 180
Brand new radiator, cooling system, radiator, thermo..fresh cooling system.
Over 20 years and say 4 coolant changes only, minimal loss of efficiency is 20% (wear of all hard parts) 180 plus 36 degrees is 216 degrees.
Fix the "problem" and not cover it up with a $500 band aid.
Si Vis Pacem Parabellum
1967 Starlight black PMD Engineering 400 Auto 1968 Alpine Blue 400 4 speed 1968 Verdoro Green 400 HO 4 speed 2013 1LE 2SS/RS Inferno Orange Camaro.
Take old radiator and reuse the old tanks and brackets and have it recored.
Originally Posted By WiscBird
I had my radiator in to get cleaned and checked, and the old guy said the radiator was bad (multiple leaks), and recommended a new one since the old one would cost almost as much to fix.
Take old radiator and reuse the old tanks and brackets and have it recored.
Originally Posted By WiscBird
I had my radiator in to get cleaned and checked, and the old guy said the radiator was bad (multiple leaks), and recommended a new one since the old one would cost almost as much to fix.
????
Just going to post two quotes above and reply with a palpable "????" and not imply or infer as to what about that you need explaining.
How about making an intelligible reply if there is something you need explaining.
What is it, what is it Jim that you do not get, that allowed you to only reply with a "????" is it that post meter slowly creeping to 10k?
Tell us please.
Si Vis Pacem Parabellum
1967 Starlight black PMD Engineering 400 Auto 1968 Alpine Blue 400 4 speed 1968 Verdoro Green 400 HO 4 speed 2013 1LE 2SS/RS Inferno Orange Camaro.
Take old radiator and reuse the old tanks and brackets and have it recored.
Originally Posted By WiscBird
I had my radiator in to get cleaned and checked, and the old guy said the radiator was bad (multiple leaks), and recommended a new one since the old one would cost almost as much to fix.
????
Just going to post two quotes above and reply with a palpable "????" and not imply or infer as to what about that you need explaining.
How about making an intelligible reply if there is something you need explaining.
What is it, what is it Jim that you do not get, that allowed you to only reply with a "????" is it that post meter slowly creeping to 10k?
Tell us please.
Expert who actually inspected the radiator says it's not saveable or not economically feasible to save. Thought you may have missed that so ????. And 5 digits are lookin' good!
-Or so I was told.. -not that I know a way to test that..
aluminum isn't neceserely better than brass/copper, but it sure is lighter..
-replacing with, say 4 core center will work for you..
Maybe waterpump needs an overhaul..
This is from Primedias homepage: luminum vs. Copper-Brass
"Many new performance radiators, such as those from Griffin and Be Cool, are made from aluminum that offers weight savings over copper-brass. While aluminum does not dissipate heat as well as copper-brass, modern radiator design more than makes up for the difference. Old copper-brass radiators were soldered together, but solder is a poor thermal conductor and this reduced the ability of the fins to remove heat from the tubes. "
I had my original Harrison recored with a 4 core setup (not sure but I think the cores were from Desert Cooler??) New WP, etc, runs cool as a cuke, even when it was over 100 last month. Just my 3 cents
Hmm...Im a bit confused on where I mentioned I was having an overheating problem...
I took the old radiator in to get a proper deep cleaning and inspection from one of the local experts in my area. I also wanted the draining petcock repaired a bit better as it looked as though the prior owner had "boogered" it was some jb weld, especially since it wasn't drain properly.
After the radiator was deep cleaned, and the pet [censored] repaired properly, the tank was pressure tested and inspected. It was found to have multiple leaks in different areas. The old guy told me he could fix it, but, for what it would cost I'd be better off getting a new once since odds are that there were probably other leaks in the not so distant future.
There wasn't an overheating element to this problem... just a simple case of an old worn out radiator and the advice of someone working in the field for over 40 yrs to get a new one.
I submitted a Q to the forum asking for input on suggestions for a decent replacement. Cost was an issue as I wanted to stay under $400. I had already gone the cheap local Autozone route and twice the new radiator was either damaged, or the wrong make/model when it arrived.
So, I opted to go a a bit more expensive then the standard $250 and splurged for a $400 aluminum... I'll find out in the hopefully not to distant future if it was worth the extra $150 or not. Looks weren't the issue... longevity and cooling ability were.
Thanks again everyone for the alum vs brass debate...
When you say you took your old radiator in to get cleaned and checked, you either do it for a reason or not. Typically, one goes through the labor and expense due to an issue or problem. Removing it "just cause"?
I assumed improperly.
The best course of action? There are 5 businesses within 20 minutes from me that will recore your old radiator for $150. If you are having no overheating issues (my improper assumption) use your old tanks and brackets and 48 hours for the work, then reinstall without any mods, alterations or issues on fitment.
If you "need" an aluminum radiator, by all means buy one from a reputable, reliable and customer service orientated vendor. Cheap replacements are out there, but then again, you may find yourself trying to get service from somewhere (aluminum radiator vendor) that is 1500 plus miles away.
Good aluminum radiators with quality workmanship and service cost around $4-500..and will not blow a bead in a year.
Si Vis Pacem Parabellum
1967 Starlight black PMD Engineering 400 Auto 1968 Alpine Blue 400 4 speed 1968 Verdoro Green 400 HO 4 speed 2013 1LE 2SS/RS Inferno Orange Camaro.
I hope for the money spent on an atomic # 13 (Al) rad will bolt right in without any modification. I think ya spent $100 more than needed. But you worked for it, you can spend it anyway ya want.
Just some final clarification on the "radiator saga"...
I had already swapped drivetrains from one car to the other. In pulling the radiator the first time I noticed the petcock was draining funny. When I went to reinstall it, I took a closer look at it and noticed JB weld around the petcock threads and inside the bottom area. Instead of simply bolting it back up and using it, I decided to take it to a local guy who gave a cheap estimate of $30 for a deep cleaning, to completely remove and replace the petcock with a new one soldered in, and then pressure test it for leaks. It was not because of overheating..
For $30, thats a pretty cheap price for a clean, fresh radiator to reinstall, not to mention the peace of mind knowing...no leaks.
BUT, it turned out there were leaks, and thus started the searching for a new one based on his advice. He did quote me a price of around $175-200 for recoring, BUT, he advised against it because he thought there might be some additional leaks down the road given the current set of leaks.
Sure it would be cheaper to recore for now, BUT, for the price involved, his advice was to go with a new one for a better long term solution to the leaky radiator. He wasn't just in it for the money, as the guy never even charged me for the deep cleaning and repairing of the petcock.
Gotta know when to 'fold em'. Some radiators are just junk. And with Pontiacs you need every advantage in cooling. One last bit of advice I would like to give is to NOT paint it. Radiators work better without another coat of paint on them.
I replaced my radiator with a 4 core desert cooler because I had cooling problems. That didn't solve it so I hunted for YEARS for the solution replacing and tweaking every component in the cooling system until I decided to replace the engine an be done with it. When that didn't solve it I accepted that it must still be the radiator so I replace the brass/copper Desert Cooler w/a Summit universal aluminum radiator. PROBLEM SOLVED!
It is not that brass/copper is a better conductor of heat, but that the larger Al tubes have more total surface area.