No, not dynamite.

Having too many vehicles, I am forced to park my truck outside on the concrete driveway (the garage floor is epoxy coated). Being a Chevy, it naturally drips. An oil pan won't work here due to the frequent winds.

Being a relatively new house, I have tried all sorts of ways to clean up after my truck. Every dish soap, laundry detergent, and degreaser known to man. Simple Green, even WD-40 (Internet suggestion - DON'T try it).

In desperation, I turned to my Griot's Garage catalog and gave one of his products a try. It's called simply Concrete Cleaner, Product #11284. It's a thick liquid very much like pancake batter and it smells like oranges.

Just pour over the stain, let it dry 5 to 8 hours, sweep it off (similar to K2R spot remover for clothes). The spot is completely gone. It uses actually lifts the substance out of the concrete. It's phosphate-free, bio-degradable, and awesome.

A bit pricey at $45 a gallon, but worth it.

thanks for the tip! i have a few areas i need to clean up but was going to use menarick acid for it. will try this first!

Menarick acid? Is that like muriatic acid?

Citric acid works too, it's what's included in the epoxy paint prep kits.

For stain prevention, those disposable absorbent mats (car diapers) sold at the local auto parts chains or online are great for indoor or outdoor use. Some are made to ignore water and absorb only oils and hydraulic fluids. If you visit people with spotless driveways, it's a nice way to be sure you are asked over again. Just toss one in a plastic bag in your trunk.

Thanks for the tip on the cleaner, I'll likely get some for my garage floor, I don't like to do acid baths if I cannot thoroughly rinse the floor.

ya vikki. just cant remember the spelling. its concrete etcher. have to reseal the floor after but it pulls everything up no problem!

Being in the reconstructive masonry trade for years, I know hydrochloric (muriatic) acid will take out just about every stain. At the same time it is also removing the mortar/concrete. Dilute 10% hydrochloric acid at first then increase the strength. RINSE THOURGLY! Unless you like a divot in your driveway or your chimney to fall apart.

If using muriatic acid, remember the old chemistry class rule. Pour acid into water, not the other way around. I would avoid it for most stains and cleaning, especially if you can't pressure wash it off completely. The leftover fumes will rust all the tools and bare steel in your shop.

And cars, when you put them back in...

I use ALL laundry detergent (dry) and a strong hose. If that doesn't mellow the stain out then you got problems. If you start messing with those Acids mentioned above without serious studying and analysis, ..... you'll be sorry!

The drawback to hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is if it's not rinsed off throughly it will dry to a powder. Any contact to water after it drys will let it continue to eat away the concrete/mortar. This also includes high humidity. It takes a lot of water to neutralize hydrochloric acid. If you think you used enough water, wet it down some more.

Nash, your right about using All (brand name). With a stiff brush, it's the whip to clean a driveway before you apply blacktop. A friend's father taught me that one.

Tom, I had a good friend try and tackle this on his Brand New Driveway last year....yes he removed the old spills off his brand new driveway, but all the shrubs and grass within the "gravity water zone" died about three days later.

He created a mini desert around his garage, an area where nothing green can live. He used some solvent mixture from hell.

Use ALL, or nothing. Even ALL will put plants and grass in a spin, but its not a nuclear blast.

I'm telling you - the stuff I mention above from Griot's Garage is the cat's meow for stains. No water, no scrubbing, no smell, no harsh chemicals, and bio-degradable.