Hi,
I just installed my windshield on my convertible using 5/16" 3M Windo-Weld ribbon. The glass is quite far from the frame and I can't get at the screws for the side trim. Is the glass to far from the frame? Do I need to remove it and start over using a different sealer? Will I be able to install the trim the way it is now? What is the correct gap between the glass and frame?
Thanks for your help.
David

If you used a replacement windshield, it will be thinner than original. I had to have mine done twice (urethane) to get the glass to fit tight to the stainless. The second time around, we used a 3/8" foam dam instead of 5/16".

John, can you explain the procedure for Urethane installation?

I know this discussion comes up from time to time and you believe Urethane is the way to go. I've read of using setting blocks and trial fitting prior to urethane sealing. I have the 3M automix gun and cost difference either way is negligable.

The 3M ribbon seal that is closer to OEM but it has no adjustment range. You pick 5/16 or 3/8 and take what you get as a result. Actually, the OEM was thiokol, which isn't available anyway, so discussion about what was orignal seem irrelevant. Explanation of keeping passangers inside the car during collison are not important either, as NTSHA found ribbon was adequate and equivalent.

I'm most interested in installation ease and more importantly, the outcome. TIA.

I have admiration for people who do things themselves -- in my case I opted to hire someone. Got the front and rear glass installed the other day with all the trim for $160. Came with a replacement guarantee for the glass if it ever breaks as long as I own the car!

John

Yes, I know all about the urethane vs. butyl issue. I replaced enough butyl windshields when I had my shop that I was easily swayed by the arguments for urethane. It's not too hard.

The first step is to get some 3/8" foam dam which is made by Marcy (a division of PPG): https://corporateportal.ppg.com/NA/Glass/AutoGlass/300_Sundries/320_Catalog/cat_marcy.htm

Clean and prime the frame like you would for butyl, then cut some 1.5" strips (6) of the foam dam and place evenly across the top and bottom of the frame. Set you glass on them and the factory stops and check all your moldings and the adjustment of your stops.

The replacement windows are thinner and a shade shorter than stock so there is little room for error. Once you have the windshield where you want it. Put some tape across the gaps to help line it up on installation. Also scribe around the perimeter of the window so you know where to put the urethane. The foam is black so you should paint the inside of the frame black so it doesn't stick out when you look through the glass. The foam dam should be about 3/16" - 1/4" in from the scribe mark, but not so far in that it looks crappy through the glass. You can adjust it after you put it down but not too many times. Once the dam is in place, apply the urethane (get a medium or slow setting one). The urethane bead need only be a little over level with the foam. Lay the glass in place and do not over compress it, but make sure the urethane is sealing it. Let is cure an hour or so and put your stainless on!

For the cost of the gun, I got someone I know to help me. But if I already had the gun ($60+) I would do it myself.

I hired a pro to come to my house and replace the windshield on my 68 hardtop. Same deal though, the gap will be larger than original unless the installer knows the tricks and does it right.

When all was said and done, there was still a slight noticeable gap (to me) between the new glass and the original chrome trim.

I've been looking at windshield installs at various car shows. For the most part, the look sloppy, with crooked black sealant lines visible, especially at the bottom of the front windshield. I've been trying to figure out what part of my dash should be painted black to avoid this problem. I haven't seen any examples, other than black cars, that looked good.

Does anyone have photos? How did they look when original?

Have it done? I'm honestly scared of the outcome. I would rather do it myself and do it over when I mess up. My last glass repair, ten years ago, the shop pryed the glass out with a 2x4 against my old and slightly cracking padded dash. Just because it's an older car, doesn't entitle the shop to add patina. That pad would have cost over $300 from GM. The car had two year old paint but worn interior. They figured it's a hooptie, so whail away. I was so angry, I was speachless.

The foam dam/urethane gives a nice result. The original thiokol had a foam or cloth composite dam to give a nice border around the glass. The foam (which is like self adhesive weather strip) gives a professional looking border too. You just need to lay it down straight. Doing it yourself will allow you to take the time to center everything up and adjust the stainless up or down for best fit. I did all the prep work on mine and had the glass guy lay down the urethane.

The most important part to paint semi-gloss black is your A-pillars. The header would be second. The dash will be what ever color is called for in your interior.

Had a pro install mine for $150.
He used 1/4-5/16 thick x 3/8 wide urethane tape.
Then rtv'd around the glass to body and beveled it.
Said as hot as it was, be good to go in 24hrs to Norwalk and race.

BTY, it's a PPG glass...from China...

If it was tape, it was butyl. Urethane is a 2k product, hence the expensive mixing gun.

Probly right, i didnt ask.
Looked like firm semi-sticky rtv.
He did brush primer the steel 10 minutes before we placed the w/shield down.

We? You mean a professional had you help install the glass? Unlike the huge sheets of glass he installs all day long, the W688 is a dinky piece of glass he should be able to install by himself, using one hand.

All i did was help lower it into position to make sure it was square.
Known him for a couple years. Been try'n to get me to work part time.
Came from 30-40 minutes away to my home.
The $150 was new ppg glass installed.

That was my point! He needed help lowering it into position? How does he do installs on late modle vehicles? In other words, if he cannot drop a 688 in the hole without help, he sure the heck cannot drop a modern windshild--ten times the size--in the hole.

Can you get a picture of the ppg logo? Mine has 2 small chips in it, and after 23 years--I origionally installed it in my old bird--it has 187k miles of "road rash." I would replace it if the glass was indeed a letitimate ppg. Otherwise, I'll sit on mine because the damage and slight road rash isn't bad enough to to replace with a lessor quality.

Of course, now that I have posted about it, the next time I'm out, a large bird will do a kamakazi dive, dead center of the sheild.

New glass is thin?? Yikes! So, is the 3/8" sufficient to have the thinner glass sit flush with the stainless? As far as the fit is concerned, does it matter if it's butyl tape or the foam dam?

PPG is made in China.
I'll try to get i pic Sunday/Monday.

At 6'2" and 225lbs(not overwieght), he can do a late model by himself.
Been doing it for 15-20 yrs.

My garage is packed full. Like 10 lb's crap in a 5 lb diaper
Only about 1.5' either side of car.
Car in foward, and another car blocking it outside.
So it was easlier/faster for us to lift it over the roof.

Here you go.
Some garage pic's are in here somewhere.

http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/bb72/ponchoshop/