The back-up lights on my '67 are not working. I have an automatic console floor shift. What do I test and where and how do I find what to test for so I can get them to work?

The backup light switch is part of the neutral safety switch attached to the body of the floor shifter.

I would start by checking the bulbs, the fuse, the wires for continuity (detects a bad ground), and then the switch itself.

I thought the back up switch was part of the linkage on the column..?So if the linkage is missing its not engaging the back up switch...it was on mine , but mine is 69 automatic ,maybe different?
And I did not fix the linkage , just added a flat 'wiggle' switch under dash for my back ups...

Bjorn - you and I seem to have the same vision problem.

The '69 is different from the '67-'68! The ignition lock was moved to the column in '69 and the back-drive linkage is used not only to lock the transmission, but also to turn the back-up lights on and off. In '67-'68 the switch was still mounted on the shifter somewhere, as Salmon wrote.

My thought is that if the neutral safety switch still works, i.e. the car con not be started in gear, then the back-up light circuit probably has a fuse or wiring issue, rather than a switch problem. Just my humble opinion.

Also, you don't need to have a switch under the dash if your linkage is disconnected. Just rotate the outer tube of the column about 5 degrees clockwise, and your back-up lights should come on. Don't forget to rotate it back, though! The key won't come out. If it does, the steering wheel won't be locked.

Q

Yep - there are 2 sets of wires going through the '67 neutral switch. Purple/purple for the neutral safety and pink/bright green for the backup lights.

It very well could be the whole switch would be defective taking out both the backup lights and the neutral start feature. That's what I meant by 'check the switch' as in put the shifter in neutral and try and and start the car.

If it is the switch - I got a nice reproduction for the TH 400 from Rick's Camaros. My switch had been removed and the console wiring harness wires jumpered so the previous owner could start the car. So not only did I have to replace the switch, but the console harness too. Thanks, whoever you were!

Salmon ... you and I are on the same page.

If the car starts with the gear selector in any position, and the back-up lights never light up, then I think Salmon's dead right. Otherwise, look for a broken/cut wire or a bad fuse somewhere.

Q

Hah , I guess I am not too old yet!...to learn that is...So thats how it works! :rolleyes:

I had my tube 'fixed' since it always turned by itself as I drove and you could start w/o a key...if you did not remember to turn it as you stopped...well, maybe I will leave it as is anyway...rather have to use the wiggle than forget to turn and somebody just drives off w my car , keyless....

Maybe it would behove me to locate and install linkage...?
well, we`ll see....thanks Q!
/B

And they say you can't teach an old dog new tricks!

Q

This old dog learns new tricks all the time! LOL

Do still bark at the moon

I can also confirm Quenton's and Salmon's claims. My '67 back up lights also do not work 'cuz my neutral safety switch is bad and is jumpered out. I'll replace it someday.

Vince

Thanks for all of your responses. I haven't had the time to check anything out yet, but I'm wondering when you say the switch is mounted on the body of the shifter, is that under the car or do I have to remove the console to find it? I'm new at this, I need a mental picture! Thanks for your help!

Ken

You MAY have to remove the console, but I doubt it.

First remove the flat 2 piece metal plate that surrounds the shifter. It's the one that has the PRND21 on it. The shifter body is below that. You can't get to the shifter from below the car without destroying the big rubber boot that fills the hole in the floor.

My 400 coupe has/had the same problem. The neutral safety part still worked as it is a separate circuit as others have noted. I removed the switch assembly (console can stay just shifter plate to be removed) and disassembled the switch body (black plastic and metal). The metal part has tangs that secure the plastic body. Inside are sliding plastic pieces that engage metal contacts similar to your horn contacts. The plastic wears down. I was able to adjust the metal contacts some to allow for the worn slider. Worked for a year or so and now I have to do again. Going to see if I can melt a little filler on the piece that actuates the metal contact. Can you tell I'm on a strict budget? As others have said, I believe there is now a replacement available just in the last year or so. I have seen it listed in the Classic Industries reproduction catalog. Either way you go, enjoy . Hope you can see backing up again soon.

I bought the Classic Ind. replacement neutral safety switch for my 400 and just put it in. Unfortunately, my fustration level is building to new heights. When trying to adjust and position the switch so the back-up lights would go on in reverse, then throw it in park, the car wouldn't start. When 'backing' it off a little bit so the car would start, then the back-ups wouldn't light up in reverse but they would in neutral. I must have spent hours trying to adjust the position of the switch and when I thought I might have it and tighten it down, one of the two scenerios would prove me wrong. I'm ready to pull my hair out with this one! (And I don't have that much to work with)

Ken, I found the answer. I went on E-bay and picked up a repop one. Tried putting it in and it didn't work any better than my original. Pulled the original apart again while I sent the repop back. Got the original working again while the repop vendor said "works fine for me"...probably without ever testing it in a "real" car hence the positioning problem might be the cause. Anyway, my original is continuing to work fine. Maybe a small set screw could be placed in the slider to make up the worn plastic deficiency? If anybody wants a questionable repop, I have one on hand for cheap! Or maybe that is the incentive my old one needed to work?

i found that by placing the car in reverse ( not while running preferred) then with someone watching from behind, tighten the adjusting screws when the back-up lights come on.
but the most frustrating thing that happened to me... i installed two of these from N.P.D. and both failed within a week. so i just reinstalled my original, and said "they can hear me back up, i don't need them stupid lights anyway"
but if somone knows a good replacement, i may reconsider.