My car arrived today! I am very happy with it. Body looks great and it runs awesome!
Here are a few questions (I'll post some pics soon)
1- The carb is a Quadrajet with the following markings: 78 - below the Quadrajet logo 1708213 w/ 8213 x'ed out 00661 CPX (or 006G1 CPX) It also says "Mfg for Carter Carburetor for GMC" Any info (no matter how basic ) would be very appreciated
2- The previous owner did not tell me it had "racing brakes." The drums look intact and there are lines going to the rear brakes, but it is a BEAST to stop. What would you recommend to remidy this? (again, assume I need even basic info at this point )
3- The headers/manifold clear the ground by about 4 to 6 inches. This will be somewhat problematic for daily driving on Louisiana roads. The link in my sig shows the way it sits. I love the look, but what can be done to make it sit a few inches taller up front?
4- The previous owner also did not tell me that none of the gauges work. The lights on the speedometer and gas gauge work, the turn signals and all exterior lights work (incl blinkers and hazards), but the gauges, and windshield wipers do not work. Do I need to tear out the dash to fix this?
Overall, I am extremely pleased. The engine purs, the tranny shift nice, the exhaust sounds phenomenal, and the body is near show quality (seems to me, the VERY untrained eye). No dents, dings, leaks, or any problems aside from the two issues I mentioned above.
I do need to put frame connectors on it, get the brakes working better (and the car registered), and I'll be having some real fun.
I suggest you do a search on non-functioning gauges first. There is a ton of stuff covered already. After reading those and doing the checks, if you still have some questions post them and we can hammer them out. Good looking car. I like the stance.
Post a shot of the engine bay from the front. My guess is that you have manual front disc brakes. Either build up some leg muscle or convert to power disc.
As for gauges, you might just have a bad dash ground.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Getting this car off the trailer without hitting the headers and main exhaust pipe was a real bear. We had to keep building up wood blocks to lift the front and get it over the edge of the downslope.
Racing brakes? A term I heard today for the first time. I've driven a 66 Stang without power brakes, and this is something different. The pedal has to go all the way to the floor before any slowing occurs. The deliver guy seemed to think the rear brakes had been disabled so the car could do burnouts at the track before a race. ...glad I got to it before it at least routinely did that. The body would be bent all to hell without any frame connectors, from what I understand. The body is pretty straight though. No problems with the doors, windows, etc, and it sits evenly.
He did tell me the wipers had issues, and that there were issues with the high-beam indications (high beams work). He didn't tell me about the speedometer or fuel gauge or horn not working.
I'll get a pic from the ground tomorrow after I land, if there's enough light out still. If not, I'll take the pic Friday morning before work and then post it here. That way it can be determined if it is sitting lower than normal.
Really, the only good way to get the front higher so you have more clearance on the headers is new/different front springs.
From reading a little more about your 'racing brakes'; it is possible that the previous 'racer' owner installed a line lock incorrectly in a brake line. The other alternative is that there is a brake problem and it's hidden behind an excuse that they are racing brakes.
The other problems are smaller and the 'usual' with having an antique car that has had an owner with racing priorities.
All in all, it seems you got very close to what you were promised which is either very lucky or you did a good job buying. Congrats!
Also looking at the engine pic it looks like you've got manual brakes, so switching to power brakes would help a lot. If you've got drum all around as well, that would explain having to really push hard on it. As for the brake pedal going to the floor, that sounds like air in the brake lines, contaminated fluid, or, the proportioning valve could be way off. Check your master resevoir level to see if its low and look for bubbles as well. If everything is fine, bleed the rear brakes again, and see if fluid comes out fine, or if nothing comes out..a kink in a line. If everything checks out, Id lean towards proportioning valve problem.
Finally, are those ladder bars in the back that the red arrow is pointing too? Frame connectors connect front to back..right? The arrow looks like its point to the bars in the back, typical of a drag car.
btw: If you have doubts or major Qs, don't be afraid to ask a mechanic to do a safety inspection of everything before really opening it up. Brakes are not something to mess with if you're unsure. As for the electrical, start with grounds, fuses, tight connectons, and then onto bulbs, frayed wires (and then onto the multimeter for resistance, etc.)
It looks like a nice car...please post more pics and feel free to ask more Qs..
That BBC is a heavy motor. If the springs were weak to begin with, adding that much extra weight is bound to drop the front some. I would agree that some new springs look like they are in order. Speedo not working would either be a bad cable or the driven gear in the trans. If it's indead hooked up. Also if you haven't done it yet, check all the fuses. Easiest place to start.
Also looking at the engine pic it looks like you've got manual brakes, so switching to power brakes would help a lot. If you've got drum all around as well, that would explain having to really push hard on it. As for the brake pedal going to the floor, that sounds like air in the brake lines, contaminated fluid, or, the proportioning valve could be way off. Check your master resevoir level to see if its low and look for bubbles as well. If everything is fine, bleed the rear brakes again, and see if fluid comes out fine, or if nothing comes out..a kink in a line. If everything checks out, Id lean towards proportioning valve problem.
There isn't any proportional valve on it(see pic). Which is normal for not having front disk brakes. Also, manual drum brakes that are working right do not work how you have described these. It sounds like you either have just front or just rear brakes. Which is very dangerous because you are half way to having no brakes at all. Trouble shooting will start at the master cylinder to check on fluid levels for your first clue. The clue will be which chamber is low. This will narrow down the search for trouble. Second clue would be the wet spot somewhere.
[[/quote] There isn't any proportional valve on it(see pic). [/quote]
Jim...look closely at the pic...on the right side of the engine, look at the master cylinder, then look right of it, and down a bit...the proportioning valve assembly is there. Whether or not all the lines are hooked up correctly, or its adjusted properly remains to be seen. But its there... So that begs the question... drums, or disc, correctly hooked up lines, enough fluid, contaminated fluid, air in the lines, faulty wheel cylinders, etc...
Does or does not the brake distributor block/switch have a valve inside it which dictates the level of pressure divided between the front brakes and rear brakes? Maybe Im saying the wrong term, but thinking of the correct item? That propotional/delay valve you show wasn't what I was thinking about...I was thinking about the distributor block and perhaps its malfunctioning...
I've got some old original Delco-remy brake institute books that show the blocks, and I swear I saw a valve within them.. hmm.. got me thinking now... (scarey).. If I can find them (packed away for moving), Ill take a look at them again.
Believe us. We know the system backwards and forwards.... Once you know it, it is very simple. And that distibution block is just a junction with a valve/switch inside that is tripped for the warning light. They very rarely go bad. It would be the least likely problem.
Jim, I beleive you and the rest of the techie/experts here. Im not doubting the knowledge on this board at all. I wasn't saying that the block was the likely culprit. My 1st reaction was low brake fluid level, air in lines or a kink in one of the lines. However, if that distrib block isn't hooked up correctly, or the wrong sized lines are used or are plugged, odd things can happen. Thats all I was saying...
You could be right about possible wrongly routed lines off the block. But the obstruction theory would cause a high and hard pedal which isn't being described as a symptom. Low and hard usually means that you have half the system working.
Here are the issues I had with my 67...low pedal hard stopping. Low pedal was resolved by adjusting the brake pedal pushrod. Hard stopping was caused by no front brakes. The brakes were not working because the rear res. on the MC was leaking on the inside of the firewall (interior of the car.) I've also seen the rubber lines swell due to age...causing a restriction the result being hard pedal, but no pressure at the caliper/slave cylinder.
Everyone else has for the most part covered the issues I could weigh in on. The headers are always going to be a problem IMO. Since you 'bird started out with a Pontiac motor, the weight difference with the Chevy big block might be enough to compress the front coils further. I'd order front coils for the big block Camaro. Best wishes getting your 'bird safe and road worthy!
Here are the issues I had with my 67...low pedal hard stopping. Low pedal was resolved by adjusting the brake pedal pushrod. Hard stopping was caused by no front brakes. The brakes were not working because the rear res. on the MC was leaking on the inside of the firewall (interior of the car.) I've also seen the rubber lines swell due to age...causing a restriction the result being hard pedal, but no pressure at the caliper/slave cylinder.
I like to leave the brake pedal pushrod adjustment until most other causes are evaluated. I like your thinking on the master cylinder as the defective part. Most likely cause after it's determined that all his parts are in a stock configuration. Especially if there are no big puddles....
Here are the issues I had with my 67...low pedal hard stopping. Low pedal was resolved by adjusting the brake pedal pushrod. Hard stopping was caused by no front brakes. The brakes were not working because the rear res. on the MC was leaking on the inside of the firewall (interior of the car.) I've also seen the rubber lines swell due to age...causing a restriction the result being hard pedal, but no pressure at the caliper/slave cylinder.
I like to leave the brake pedal pushrod adjustment until most other causes are evaluated. I like your thinking on the master cylinder as the defective part. Most likely cause after it's determined that all his parts are in a stock configuration. Especially if there are no big puddles....
I agree with Jim. The pedal pushrod was right when the car was delivered.
This is a forty year old car. There is nothing more important to safety than being able to stop, unless it's being able to steer. The entire brake system should be gone through, renewing all hoses, cylinders, tubes and linings before putting the car on the road. This is one repair that should be shot-gunned with new parts rather than diagnosed one cheap part at a time.
It's funny how people start restoration with the engine. You need to be able to stop and steer first. That is where repairs should begin.
It does look like some attention was paid to the lines, they look new.... And it is nice and tidy under the hood. It also looks like there are new nuts on the master cylinder.
One of my 'birds has new steel lines too, and I replaced the entire rear brake assemblies. I went to loosen the bleeder screw to bleed the original fronts (temporary, before replacing everything), and I cannot even pull fluid with the vacuum pump from the bleeder. Fluid runs freely from the steel line just above the rubber. The rubber lines are internally collapsed. Firm, full pedal, too. In fact, it just about stops halfway down since the front wheel cylinders don't expand. Shiny and tidy does not mean it works right.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
I think forty year old steel lines are an accident waiting to happen. I pulled 1982 lines from my truck five years ago and they crumbled at every fitting regardless of appearance or care. When bent double, they readily snapped. They only had "surface rust". I've looked for references about the problem and I can't find the proof. I suspect the brake fluid and the water enbrittle the metal much worse than appearance suggests.
Lines $250 Cylinders $100 linings $75 Master $50 Hoses $50 One day wrenching, free.
LOL Of course not! But all we have for clues are pictures. New lines and a tidy engine compartment are good clues that the car has had some attention. Better than it looking like a 'Chipmunk' did the work(other thread).
I talked with the previous owner about the "racing brakes," and he said there was nothing different about the brakes other than them being standard drum brakes. They are drum front and rear, and after driving the car here on the AF base (low speed limit and traffic) the brakes have gotten better. The car seems to have sat for a while before he sold it, which would make sense about the brakes. I was thinking of getting a PB booster and seeing how that worked. Will a disk brake MC/Booster setup work with drums? I'd hate to buy drum-specific items only to replace them later when I have the money to do a disk option up front. Here's the setup I was eyeing from ClassicIndustries:
I do have a question about the front springs. Would this option in the image below from the YearOne catalog be a good idea? They are adjustable, and they have SB and BB options. I was thinking the BB option. That way, I could adjust as needed as well.
A separate but related question: Are there different motor mounts (assuming there is clearance enough with the hood) that could raise the engine in the car? I plan to some play-doh on the top of the engine to see how much clearance I have. The oil pan and headers sit so low that it seems the mounts are too short.
Motor mounts may be simply collapsed from age and heat and oil. Replace them, they're cheap. Replace the trans tailshaft mount at the same time.
Read over the brake system specs, including line pressures at the bottom of the page, before deciding on your course of conversion. Make sure that the line sizes are the same at both outlets as your existing system, or you'll be buying or making lines that you will have to replace again, unless you can find adapters.
you could save yourself some $$$ if you look at places other than resto houses for parts like those brakes, as long as you do not need something than is a restoration piece
) would be very appreciated
