Can anyone give me a rough idea of what a fair/average labor price to replace a floor pan would be(not including the cost of the pan(s)
Cut out the existing floor weld in the new and seal.
I'm meeting a body guy for an estimate tomorrow eve and I want to get a ball park idea of what to expect. If the price seems right i'm going to have him start right away.
My local shop quoted $400 for R&R left half pan (no tunnel or pinchweld area), toe pan to front of rear seat. That's with me bringing the car in with bare floors.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
My local shop quoted $400 for R&R left half pan (no tunnel or pinchweld area), toe pan to front of rear seat. That's with me bringing the car in with bare floors.
Thank you, That gives me a good idea. Would you please explain what/where the pinchweld area is?
The pinchweld is the multilayer seam that runs along the rocker panel underneath the car. One side is the rocker flange, one side is the floor flange. To drill out all those pinch welds is time consuming, so if the floor is good in that area and only the footwell areas are bad, then it's much less expensive to replace only the footwell areas. The photo below shows the pinch weld.
Be aware that if the rust extends up behind the pedals, then a second panel (toe board or toe pan) is usually needed to complete the repair. The half floor pan repair section just makes the turn up at the front of the pan, then stops. And it stops at the base of the rear seat step-up.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
I had one shop owner quote me 10 hours verbal, I asked the guy doing the job later, he didn't think he could do it that fast, he figured 15-20. Based on that I would have ended up with a much higher bill at pick up time. So beware unless you get a written quote.
I decided to do mine myself. Took about 8 hours to get it out, but I'd never done one before either. For what it would cost to have done I'm buying a good welder.
Wanting a Custom fit in an off the rack world.
I don't have time for a job, I just need the money.
Any reason you don't want to do it yourself. It one of those jobs where you could mostlikely do a better job then then the person your taking it to and the cost would be a wash after you get a welder and a few tools.
A floor pan is a great place to practice you metal work since its hidden most of the time.
If its more about time then I completly understand.
The pinchweld is the multilayer seam that runs along the rocker panel underneath the car. One side is the rocker flange, one side is the floor flange. To drill out all those pinch welds is time consuming, so if the floor is good in that area and only the footwell areas are bad, then it's much less expensive to replace only the footwell areas. The photo below shows the pinch weld.
Be aware that if the rust extends up behind the pedals, then a second panel (toe board or toe pan) is usually needed to complete the repair. The half floor pan repair section just makes the turn up at the front of the pan, then stops. And it stops at the base of the rear seat step-up.
Great info and advice - Thanks for taking time to post a pic! - It make sense now. The guy ended up flaking - out on me yesterday. I was suposed to meet up with him after the Pomona Swap meet but he was a no-show. Frustrating, but I enjoyed the swap meep.
Any reason you don't want to do it yourself. It one of those jobs where you could mostlikely do a better job then then the person your taking it to and the cost would be a wash after you get a welder and a few tools.
A floor pan is a great place to practice you metal work since its hidden most of the time.
If its more about time then I completly understand.
No it's not time. I guess I'm chicken. It's funny because when I was younger I used to do(try)all kinds of things myself but now I seem to hesitate and doubt myself. I think it started when my Pop passed away a few years back, he was always there for me with advice, encouragement, and a helping hand. Miss ya Dad!
I had one shop owner quote me 10 hours verbal, I asked the guy doing the job later, he didn't think he could do it that fast, he figured 15-20. Based on that I would have ended up with a much higher bill at pick up time. So beware unless you get a written quote.
I decided to do mine myself. Took about 8 hours to get it out, but I'd never done one before either. For what it would cost to have done I'm buying a good welder.
Yeah getting a written quote is important. Maybe it's a good thing the guy flaked on me, It's about time that I get back to doing more myself! Thanks!!
Stop by some time and you can copy the dvd's I have from Hot Rod Mag. It shows the complete floor pan. It doesn't look that hard , just a lot of time. We can talk to my neighbor and see if he might want to do it? Can't promise any thing but if he don't do it maybe he will know someone else who will.
Stop by some time and you can copy the dvd's I have from Hot Rod Mag. It shows the complete floor pan. It doesn't look that hard , just a lot of time. We can talk to my neighbor and see if he might want to do it? Can't promise any thing but if he don't do it maybe he will know someone else who will.
Ok Wade, thanks are you around this weekend?? I've been looking at craigslist for welders and have found a few what type do you think I need?
go for a miller matic 110 volt welder.about 800.00 new and it will hold it's resale value.in fact,i would buy it from you when you are done with it if i don't have one before than
go for a miller matic 110 volt welder.about 800.00 new and it will hold it's resale value.in fact,i would buy it from you when you are done with it if i don't have one before than
That's the one I have. Works great! I have the gas kit on it. Very versatile unit. I can roll it out and do a repair in no time. Get yourself one of those lenses for your helmet that self darkens.
The Miller 180 220V (used to be the 175) is what I'm looking at. Maybe it's our company discounts but I can get it for $800 with tank, regulator and cart. I've had problems with the duty cycle on 110 welders. Downside to 220 is less portability.
Wanting a Custom fit in an off the rack world.
I don't have time for a job, I just need the money.
It depends on the thickness you are going to weld. -We have 400V MIG welders here that are great for just about anything (500 A), and a 'small' 240V TIG welder that is superior in quality for the 'smaller' stuff (160 A).
Just make sure that it can produce enough amps, then you're set! (and don't forget a helmet w. auto on/off switch. -double as easy/quick to weld with one of those.
-And if it's available, use 'ARCAL' ,- instrad of 'ARGON' -it is better quality = easier welding.
It depends on the thickness you are going to weld. -We have 400V MIG welders here that are great for just about anything (500 A), and a 'small' 240V TIG welder that is superior in quality for the 'smaller' stuff (160 A).
Just make sure that it can produce enough amps, then you're set! (and don't forget a helmet w. auto on/off switch. -double as easy/quick to weld with one of those.
-And if it's available, use 'ARCAL' ,- instrad of 'ARGON' -it is better quality = easier welding.
Thanks for all the great info - I gather the welder uses gas AND electricity??
It's a great excuse to pick up a welder. Like they said above, get a MIG unit with gas shielding, 75% argon - 25% CO2. I use small wire, .022". A grinder and a little bondo will fix up any sloppy welds visible underneath, if that bothers you. I use the Hobart Handler 135, 120V with Ar-CO2. Works great. Cost about $600 total
It's a great excuse to pick up a welder. Like they said above, get a MIG unit with gas shielding, 75% argon - 25% CO2. I use small wire, .022". A grinder and a little bondo will fix up any sloppy welds visible underneath, if that bothers you. I use the Hobart Handler 135, 120V with Ar-CO2. Works great. Cost about $600 total
dont use Bondo underneath...use FiberGlass (can be Bondo brand!)...Bondo itself will absorb moisture over time!
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