Hi everyone,

My brake lights stopped working in the past week. I checked out a few old threads, and this one was helpful /forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=23&Number=60893&Searchpage=2&Main=7784&Words=%26quot%3Btail+lights%26quot%3B&topic=0&Search=true#Post60893

It rained in the past week a lot, and I don't have a place in my garage yet. (Ugh!) My trunk doesn't leak and I didn't see any trace of water in the electrics or light mounts.

My windshield wipers don't work.

My headlights work.

My turn signals blink at a normal rate, and work up front, but not in the back. Hazzards don't work in the back, but work up front.

My tail lights work when the headlights are on.

I did have one blown fuze, but replacing it didn't fix the problem. I replaced the rest of the fuzes.

What does this point to as the problem?

Thanks,
Dave

It points to a need to have a wiring diagram, multimeter, some spare fuses, ...and a lot of patience.. I would suggest writing down what works and doesn't work and try to find a common fuse when looking over the wiring diagram. When it comes to electrical, it could be a combination of problems. So you need to go one area at a time, and maybe even one wire at a time to find the culprits (shorts). Take your time, write down your findings, and keep sleuthing. It wouldn't be uncommon either if the prior owner (I don't know your cars history) has interchanged some wires and things are now backwards.

It more strongly points to the need to start with the basics. What the heck good is a wiring diagram when you haven't taken the first steps of the most common failures.

Step 1a: Check the grounds. That doesn't mean eyballing whatever; verify that the lights are grounded.

Step 1b: Check the brake light switch. It's just above the brake pedal.

And which fuse was it that was blown? Maybe your bulbs blew out one filament when the fuse blew....

I had the same problem in mine when I put it all back together...ended up being one of the connectors under the dash by the guage cluster...., took some contact cleaner, cleaned it up and bingo!

Jim,

It was the second one from the top on the left of the fuze box. I'll see if I can read the text on it tomorrow. Some of the text is difficult. Only one of the fuze connectors is rusted, and I plan to clean that up this weekend with some contact cleaner.

That's the tail light fuse. When the fuse blew it may have also blew out the bulb filaments. If the new/replaced fuse didn't blow out right away then maybe you don't have a short and all you need is new bulbs...

[quote=Amervo] What the heck good is a wiring diagram when you haven't taken the first steps of the most common failures.

What the heck good is it to rip into someone elses comment if they're just trying to help? Come on now, calm down. If you read what I wrote, I said that you look for a common fuse, etc, etc....

Fine, you want basic...uh... (1) check to see if the bulb is burned out (2) verify the contact surfaces of the bulbs and connections are clean and tight, (3) check to see if the bulb is put in correctly, (4) check to see if a fuse is burned out, ...and you keep sleuthing up to and including if necessary..(5) use the multimeter to check for power at the fuseblock.. (6) check between fuse block and power source (if no power anywhere), (7) check between fuse block and bulb connections for resistance (if power to block and elsewhere, but not that specific circuit), ...etc, ec..

All of those things will help narrow down the search for what is nothing more then a break in the electrical circuit. A break could be a burned out bulb, bad connection, broken wire, broken switch/or poorly adusted switch. And it could also include wires wired to the wrong circuits (cross wiring), etc...

btw: Last time I checked the forum was for us simple folks who are just trying to help. I never claimed to be a certified auto mechanic.

Another bad day for Amervo I guess. He must have forgotten that some folk are just getting their feet wet in vintage automotive repair.

As suggested, I would invest in a good multi meter (VOM) and learn enough to be dangerous. Just kiddin'. Electrical problems can be solved with a little know how and the right tools. You have to provide the tools, we can help with the know how. I for one won't blast ya for not knowing where to start. There's no such thing as a stupid question, there's just stupid answers.

I have a procedure I like to follow if I am working by myself and chasing a wiring issue.

When I know there is a short circuit (blows the fuse twice on the same circuit) I use a self-powered test lamp to help troubleshoot. To use this lamp, disconnect the battery. As with an ohmmeter, the circuit has to be dead.

Then start at the far end of the harness, say right hand brake lamp socket, and clip the lead onto one of the lamp socket terminals. Make a good connection to ground with the probe, and jiggle the harness from rear to front until the light goes on (indicating short circuit made) or off (indicating short circuit broken). Continue working the cable from one end or another to isolate the fault. Two common locations are license lamp wire next to trunk latch support, and alongside rear seat.

If I have an open circuit, lamps don't light but fuse does not blow, I use a plain 12v test lamp and check the harness from fuse box clip for the appropriate circuit to good ground, from the switch input to ground, from the switch output to ground, and from each socket in series to ground. Done with the battery connected, good wiring will light the bulb.

Many Firebirds have grounding issues in the rear lamp harnesses. You can make a temporary jumper wire to attach to the cast metal housing, and to a bare metal ground point. For a non-lighting circuit that does not blow fuses, this is sometimes all it takes to change a dull glow or flickering bulb into a proper flasher.

Wiring diagrams for all years can be found here:
http://thefirstgensite.com/library/librarydex.htm

I didn't mean to jump on Amervo or anything, I was just having a bad day and took it personally.

When I have light problems, (what person doesn't at some time during his restoration problem), I usually do start with the simple stuff like checking bulbs, fuses, grounding, switches. Then when the simple stuff doesn't correct the problem, I typically will ... go to the forum!..heh.. Seriously, Id usually try to find the wire and back track it looking for a break, and then will dig out the multimeter to test it. He is right that most of the time, its the simple stuff thats usually the problem. But it doesn't hurt to have the wiring diagram and a multimeter handy in case its something worse.

Sorry for the grumbling yesterday...just blame it on pms.. (women say that, why can't I?)

Thanks for the help, everyone. Looking at the other thread I posted in the OP, it seemed like the issues might point to something specific. With it being electrical, I was hoping for an easy fix. I'll dig in an check everything out you all have mentioned.

I do really appreciate the patience and help you guys give. I am definitely getting my feet wet. Straight bolt-in replacements are me only real previous experience, and that with crappy inexpensive vehicles...nothing like a FB.

Have a great night, and thanks again.

Dave