I just did this today in my '69. I used the following instructions from the Team Camaro website:
Start by disconnecting the battery or just the courtesy light fuse. Begin by removing all the stuff that screws into the roof and bag together the pieces with the hardware. Pull the roof rail windlacing off and the front and rear windlacing as well. It helps to have the front and rear glass out to do this job but it can be done with it still installed. Cut out the old headliner and you will notice there are support rods set into holes on the side structure. You must label the rods so you know the order they go back into the car front to rear. You must also label the holes they came out of before you remove them as there are 3 different sets of holes. I used a black magic marker on the sides of the roof for this. Masking tape on the roof bows for lables. Polish off the surface rust on the bows to help the new headliner slide better at asembly/adjustment time.
The new headliner will be labled "front" and will have a centerline. Cut a small "V" on the front and back to help find the center from looking at the other side. Here are the best tips I have for the headliner. Buy 4 boxes of medium size sheet metal paperclips that look like butterflies from the office supply store. You will realy need 4 dozen. All fasteners for anything that attaches to the roof should be installed at this time to help you find the holes after the headliner is installed. You will install the headliner over them and feel around with your fingers for them after the headliner is in place.
You need to buy 3M lighter duty headliner glue. Start with installing the bows into the headliner then put the center bow in the roof first. You will need to scrunch the headliner on both sides as it will be too long for the bows. Install all the bows in thier original locations and starting from the center bow. The white plastic bow center retainers can be soaked in a cup of hot water to make them pliable before installing the bows.
Start trimming back the listings a small amout at a time. Do a small amount on one side, then do the same bow on the other side. Use the paper clamps to attach the headliner to the metal edges on the sides of the car. Another trick here is to cut a slit in the liner on both sides of the listing about 1/4" away from each seam. This will give you a tab to pull on while you are adjusting the listings with a razor blade or scissors. You want to pull out most all the wrinkles to get a clean job. The listings need to be intact within 1" of the ends of the bows in order for the roof to look right when finished.
There is a tacking strip on the inside of the sail panel. You will need a staple gun to attach the material there. Always remember to work out the wrinkles as you go.
When you have the sides nice and tight and where you want them, you can glue them to the metal edges. Do one side at a time using the paperclamps. When both sides are done, you work on the front and rear. Pull the material tight as you glue and clamp it to the metal edjing. If all goes well at this point, you are home free.
Recover the side earmuff sail panel covers with the material provided and the headliner glue. The grain needs to go the same direction as it did originaly so pay attention to it. If your cardboard is rotten, you can make new ones or buy replacements. The retainers are the same as for the inner door panels. If you need to make new panels, you will need to transfer the old retainer clips to the new replacement panels. I cut the old ones out leaving a square hole and used the old panlels to mark the locations on the new panels. 3M black weatherstrip adhesive worked well here. Just push the retainers into the sail panels and they are done.
After the glue has dried on the metal edjes, remove the paperclamps and install the windlacing. Feel with your fingers to find the fasteners and cut tiny slits for the screws. Attach the coat hooks, shoulder belts, sunvisors etc. and you are done. If your visors need recovering, I would have it done by an apholstery shop. Mine were fine so I just reinstalled them.
Any remaining wrinkles will be worked out by careful heating and/or steam. Cut off any excess material and that is it.
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
I just did my 68 last week. Keep the headliner rods in the correct order. Start tacking the front or back first.Make sure the is enough material overhanging on all sides.In the center of your roof there are adjusting slots the rods slide back to front,which ever end you start from make sure you have room in those slots to pull the material that direction,it keeps the material tight from rod to rod. Contact cement works well for the adhesion part but the 3M spray adhesive sets quicker and is easier to work but it's 15$ a can. The only thing diappointing about mine was the material still has creases from it be folded up in a box so long.I could not pull it tight enough for them to disappear,im hoping they relax over time.
Would'nt it be best to try and get the wrinkles out before attempting to install the liner? Also...does anyone have measurements for the sail panel boards? I have material to cover them but I dont have the backing boards.
You won't even see some of the wrinkles until you get it installed and stretched.
I am just putting the finishing touches on mine:
I still need to add the windlace, rear view, dome light, and sail panels, but it is looking good! I also need to steam out a few of the folds from packaging.
Be prepared to take your time and bring a boat load of patience. I have about 15-20 hours into mine so far!
Btw, I used Permatex Headliner Glue in a spray can. I wanted the brush on stuff (easier to control) but Autozone had the spray can on the shelf. In the end, the spray glue worked out well. After I let the glue set with the clamps on overnight, I went back, heated my garage very warm and ended up re-adjusting a bunch of areas which really made a difference. I found that the Permatex glue was very forgiving even 12-18 hours after being sprayed.
