I'm trying to replace my universals. The cups are frozen solid into the yokes (the whole shaft is pretty rusty). Any advice? I'm trying to avoid beating too hard on them - I don't want to bend anything. I tried some liquid wrench and heating a little with a propane torch. They won't budge. I've got the liquid wrench soaking. If they don't budge after that I'll try heating them more thoroughly. Jegs has some nice pretty aluminum drive shafts for $325 (ouch). Does anybody own one of them?

Mine were plastic injected, and they looked very original. I had to heat them up till I saw plastic come out of the injection holes. Watch out though, they come off like a champagne cork when you heat them. Aim them away from you or any thing you don't want damaged, the last thing you want is a hot hunk of steel flying at you or your car.

Per my Chilton manual, 69 and up use the plastic. Mine's a 67 and has snap rings. I think it is rust holding them in.

check for inside snap rings. keep soaking them. sometimes part of the snap ring will come out, and some breaks off and is still holding the cup.
a ball joint press doubles as a u-joint press, but if they are that rusted, it will bend the two sides towards each other...unless you have a piece of metal of the right size to separate the two cup holes from bending towards each other. even then it's risky. a good vice and the right size sockets will do the same thing.

my favorite way is the "smart hammer" method. it's never failed me yet. i even repaired my bent yoke with that method once. (of course, i am the one who bent the yoke, using the press method)
if they are really stuck, the "smart hammer" can dimple the shaft, but to get it balanced costs about $60 and is nice to have done anyway.

If they are that bad, may want to heat and punch out or drill and punch.

If you do not have the tools, a garage or repair facility will do for around $25.

Thanks for the advice. I think I will try using a bunch of heat and if that doesn't work, take it somewhere. Balancing would probably be a good idea anyway.

Yep,these fellows got the idea,heat the cups with a oxy-acetelene torch and cool them off in cold water and they should almost fall out.I always do this to change U-joints and have never ruined a shaft,and the heating/cooling of the yoke will not hurt it.

I took it to my trusty mechanic today and they got them out and didn't even charge me. I did hear them beating on them with a BFH and it may be my imagination but it looks like the ears are bent in a little. I guess I'll know when I try to put the new universals in.

I am planning on painting the shaft. What color is it supposed to be? It looks like it used to be silver.

when mine was bent like that the new joint had a stiff spot in it.

i drove the joint in and out about 20 times and it straightened it. then i put another new joint in and had it balanced.

i also like to drive the cups toward the outside so the clip is tight against the yoke. it seems to center it and eliminate any stiff spots.

FYI..mechanics LOVE to work on old cars! Also, find someone you can trust locally and go to them whenever..Allowing them to drive your Bird with you in it will get you far as far as reducing your labor costs and leeway with shop time.

Does anybody know what the inside spacing is supposed to be between the yolk ears? Either original tolerance or what yours is that works? I'd like to get the ears the right spacing before I try to put in the new universals and maybe only do it once.

Yeah, the woman I deal with at my trusty mechanics was excited when I told her I got the bird. She's got a mid 60's vet and is into old cars. Another guy there has a mint goat that shows up at car shows. My bird wasn't running when I bought it and they supplied the flatbed to go get it and deliver it at my house for a nominal fee.

2-9/16". It was in the directions that came with the universals.