You talking the body mount bolts? There was a discussion a while back on that. I searched but couldn't find it in the archives. The torque isn't listed in any of the manuals. Try searching the archives.
Since you need to get them really tight, I use a long bar on them. I don't think I want to stick a 4 foot long bar on my torque wrench to check this. Some will say you need to check the torque on every single bolt. After many years assembling machines I find it not very practical to be checking torque on every bolt. Some bolts, like engine bolts, have to be checked. But body bolts, I don't think so....
Since you need to get them really tight, I use a long bar on them. I don't think I want to stick a 4 foot long bar on my torque wrench to check this.
I do not recall needing to use a cheater bar on my torque wrench to get to the specified torque ratings. I swear the specs are in the manual, but I can't check because I loaned it to the body shop. Let me check Vikki's site...
Keep in mind that those figures are for original body mounts... Whichever I use, I like to crank them right down with a cheater bar. That will make up for the shrinkage of the mount over the years. I know some will question my 'professionalness' with posts like this one... But common sense does prevail in any profession. Common sense tells me to put away the torque wrench when not working on mechanical parts. What torque do you put on a fender bolt? I think the answer is like knowing to flip a wrench over to get more turn on a bolt. You have to get a feel for these 'non-precision' fasteners...
My father was in the fastener design industry for 30 years (Cleveland Cap Screw, RB&W, Lake Erie Screw etc.) and he always told me to trust the torque specs, whether I think it is too loose or not. They are usually well thought out. many auto fasteners are designed to stretch and lock at specific torques, although I doubt it for this application.
As far as your comments on fender bolts and the like, I couldn't agree more.
68' Firebird 400 convertible, numbers matching, solar red w/ deluxe parchment interior. 66' Pontiac Ventura Hardtop 66' Pontiac Catalina Convertible
My father was in the fastener design industry for 30 years and he always told me to trust the torque specs, whether I think it is too loose or not. They are usually well thought out.
Then he would know that if you switched the type of mounts the specs are not 'in spec'. Also, if a bolt or nut is not 'perfect' the specs will be off. Usually they are not tight enough because the torque wrench will sense the friction of not perfect threads. My 'big bar' technique comes from having subframes move over time. They need to be as tight as you can get them(without ruining the soft part of the mount).
Your father was a smart fastener guy. My father-in-law was a smart body man. The body guy says, "Crank them body mounts down hard"! I've heard it from a few other fart smellers too. It's the 'rule of thumb' for these soft GM body mounts on all models. Just do not squeeze them until they crack. The newer style mounts are practically indestructible.
I have all the suspension torque values handy in my assembly notes. I pulled them from the Factory Assembly Manual to have them all in one place.
Both the middle are rear bolts are supposed to be 75 - 95 ft-lbs.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Yeah, that 25-40 ft lbs is for full frame car. The F-body mounts hold the car together. 75-95 ft-lbs is correct. There's a metal sleeve that takes the force, it's not the rubber.