I have finished installing my rebuilt 400 in my bird. It's amazing that the old '72 350 ran at all...the little button([rotor Bushing?]it touches the top of the rotor) inside the dist cap was loose inside the hole which was enlarged and the vacuum advance had a bad diaphram. the button which installs from the top fell out the bottom. Anyway, all new HEI dist now.

It wont start. I have a holly 600 on an ederbrock manifold. I bought the carb re-build about 5 years ago I have two leaks where the adjustment screws are on top. my old fuel pump only had 2 connection points, from the tank and to the carb, the replacement pump has a small line that I suppose is a return line. well I don't have a return line to the tank so I capped it(otherwise it spills fuel on the floor). I started thinking perhaps the old one had some sort of bypass for when less fuel is needed and this one doesn't? can I even use this pump? should I test fuel pressure and how do I do that?

As far as not running... I first tried to run it w/open LB manifolds, It shot fire and was jus' too flippin' loud! Even though I plan to replace exhaust with a larger diameter I rigged it up thinking perhaps I need the back pressure and if not at least I could hear. now it backfires through the carb with a puff of blue smoke. I rechecked the firing order on the wires and they are correct. The motor came back at TDC and I installed the new Dist. with the rotor pointing at #1 cylinder. I think I will re-check to make sure they indeed did set it to TDC on compression stroke and reinstall the dist. Any advice, ideas, or information is appreciated.


TIA


Kevin

Kevin,
You can run the pump with the return capped.

Maybe you are 180 degrees off on the timing? Does it run at all?

Thanks! I was really starting to sweat the return line thing.

the only way I think I'm 180 off is if they didn't return it on compression stroke...The timing mark was on 0 and the #1 piston was at the top as I could see it through the spark plug hole. I can try to double ck 2nite, how am I sure it is the compression stroke?...and no it doesn't run at all

You can check the comp stroke two different ways. One is to pull the valve cover off and watch both valves close completely and then bring your balancer up to 0 Or you can do it the easy way rotate the motor over with the number one plug out and have your thumb over the spark plug hole (I use a whistle stop)rotae the motor until the compression blows your thunmb or finger off of the plugged hole. Bring your balancer up to 0 on the timing marks and then pull your cap off and it will hopefully be either on #1 or possibly 180 off. Hope this helps.

you have two problems. 1 there is too much fuel in the carb. if you ran the carb then let it set for any long period of time; the gaskets will go bad. if its new, then check the float level. next, check the timing with #1 plug out and the coil wire is disconnected. turn the engine over with your finger in the [#1 plug hole] until you get compression. stop and look at the position on the distributor set to the #1 point. the retard it a couple of degrees tighten the dist nut. then you can try starting also make sure the plug wires are in the correct position.

68 400 ho 4 speed to go

. Remember the firing order is counterclockwise

It's 180' out. I'm not a gambleling man, but I'd bet good money on this one. #1 at the top doesn't mean it's on compression stroke. If the pistion is at the top and you rotate the crank one revolution 360', the pistion will again be at the top, but it will be on the opposite stroke as before it was rotated. Either way, the timing mark will be on zero.

You can play all the technical games you want, but the way I would address it is to pull the distributor out, twist it 180' and drop it back in. Why is it that I think it will fire right up?

Amervo squared me away on this last year using the infamously simple "wine-cork-in-#1plug-hole" trick. Only takes a few seconds to confirm, and does not require an assistant.

#1 at TDC and the distributor rotor around the 2 o clock position (#1 on cap) if you are facing the windshield that will get you close...go from there.

If it has dumped a lot of fuel, you may have washed out your rings and saturated oil with fuel...not good for bearings.

Thanks everyone!

Since I don't usually have anyone around to help I thought this ""wine-cork-in-#1plug-hole" trick"" might work for me...however I really don't drink so I don't have a cork either DOH!. I used a capped off piece of tubing that seemed to thread into the spark plug hole pretty tight I figured it was worth a try. I bumped the starter a few times then POP! the tube shot out and smacked the fender skirt. I looked into the hole and I can see the piston top. I turned the Harmonic balancer just a tad to hit zero. pulled off the cap and it's pointing right at cyl #1.

I'm going to recheck all my vac. lines and inside the dist. perhaps I used the wrong rotor bushing. (Cap came with two I thought I put in the stock type)


Thanks again y'all! I have to go watch my daughter sing in a school concert now. I will mess with my bird when I get home.


Kevin

Good tip, Amervo! I remember having fun watching all the paper wads popping out of my freshly painted engines when I rolled it over but didn't think of this practical application for that! I now use spark plugs to block the holes for painting after sucking one of the paper wads into the cylinder once ...

I have re-read this several times and I'm just too dense to get it.
Are you saying after I get TDC and rotor pointed to cyl#1 to then turn the dist so that the #1 plug wire (on top of the dist) is at 2:00? If so I tried but couldn't quite get it to 2:00 as my vac. adv. hits the manifold. I can move each wire over one to gain more rotation but I wanted to insure that I understand this advice first.


I double checked the rotor bushing and it is the stock type.

I also re-read all my manifold install literature and I was missing some of it. I called Edelbrock and they said I need a spacer, part # 2732 (1/8 inch). I suggested "It prolly won't run without it huh?" he said "It's designed to prevent vac. leaks sir". so I will go get one 2day and see if that is part of/all of the trouble.

Even though I'm not running yet it sure is nice to have so many good people willing to help, thanks again!

Kevin

To make it a little more simple... where ever you have #1 on the cap will not matter for start up. Just as long as you have the rotor pointing at it when the timing mark comes up on compression stroke. I think the advice you are confused about was leading you to get #1 in the stock position(from the factory). This is great for uniformity but it's not a must for the engine to run correctly.

Man, stuff like this is why I was sooooo glad my builder had a dyno at his shop. I got my engine in a "turn-key status". Broken in, total timing set for best performance, carb tuned.

With all the other variables I have going for me at start up (rebuilt tranny, complete new PS system, new brake system) I was sure glad to cut down on my "things that can go wrong".

Wow I wish I had your builder! I have all the same variables as you do plus I have one of my mono leafs off as I'm replacing them w/multi leaf.

Yep, I forgot about the new tilt steering column, front suspension and new posi rearend, too.

Plus I'm having enough fun as it is trying to customize an Edebrock choke stove meant for small block Chevys to work with my Performer manifold & carb. The rod that came with the Chevy part is too short so it looks like I am going to have to adapt the one that came with my original 400 engine.

I already tried adapting the OEM stove, but it moves down when it heats up while the choke linkage on the carb has to move up. I have NO idea how this setup worked for the previous owner.

Well I rechecked and rewired everything and I got some sputter. It wanted to run but it came with a substantial amount of blue smoke so I shut it down after a split second. I think I can get it running and timed but the stupid Holley is still leaking...A lot! I bought all new gaskets for the fuel level adjusters and I have them in but the fuel pressure is blowing it by the screw/nut on the rear one. I have tightened it a lot but as soon as I turn over the motor fuel shoots out. I don't have a fuel pressure test gauge so I may be stuck until I can get a hold of one.

I am thinking about reinstalling my old 2line fuel pump to see if that works ...perhaps if I have time 2nite.

Take the fuel line off and plug it with a bolt and hose clamp. That should allow you to at least get the car started without continuous flooding.

It lives!!

I took off the carb and reset the float levels per Holley tech guy.
I also installed the 1/8 inch spacer that E-brock said I need.

I decided to install the old fuel pump to see if it would work, It's still too much pressure and gas was all over...but, <forrestgump> it was a runnin'!! /<forrestgump>


I guess I will have to rent(if I can) a fuel pressure gauge to see where I am. It's supposed to be only 4-7 PSI according to the Holley guy.

Thanks again to all of you for you help and suggestions thus far!

Kevin