Take a look at Gordon's(ho428) pictures on the weekend project thread. Looks like he has the taller covers and stock vacuum booster. Thread link; /forums/ubbthrea...3411#Post118560
It's tight, new engine mounts. One tab on the booster stuck out and hit so I ground it down. I shimmed the booster and MC with a 1/16 shim on the engine side for a little extra clearance. Got maybe a 1/4" now. I have no idea what'll happen when it's running.
Wanting a Custom fit in an off the rack world.
I don't have time for a job, I just need the money.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I have addustable valve train, taller valve covers,AC and I can not get dirver side off with out removing wiper motor and passenger side with out lifting motor.
Well, engine installed and tab on booster is jammed against valve cover. I'd like to change booster to a smaller one. I could only fing the stock booster at Classic Industries and Ames. Does anyone know where's a good place to pick one of these up?
They sell boosters (and according master cylinders or combos) in all different sizes (with and without the Delco stamp), going from 7" to 12", at reasonable prices.
When the shop that did my motor the last time when they switched over to roller, he told me I'd have to go with the "tall" covers. I told him find a way to make the stock ones work. He had to shop around for the roller rockers and then they ended up machining them somehow to ultimately make them fit. My concern was different I guess as I insisted on a stock look...
They sell boosters (and according master cylinders or combos) in all different sizes (with and without the Delco stamp), going from 7" to 12", at reasonable prices.
Just so you know it's out there, you can get a system that many say is much better performaing than a diaphram booster, gives you plenty of clearance, and doesn't care how much vacuum your car produces.
It's tight, new engine mounts. One tab on the booster stuck out and hit so I ground it down. I shimmed the booster and MC with a 1/16 shim on the engine side for a little extra clearance. Got maybe a 1/4" now. I have no idea what'll happen when it's running.
What would be a safe clearance if I decide to modify my original booster? Like you, I would have to remove the tab and would have that amount of clearance... about 1/4". Is there a chance the valve cover may still hit the booster when running? Trevor
Here's a picture of my 69 with tall valve covers, the hydroboost master, and a DSE Wiper motor. My problem before the change was with the wiper motor, I would have to remove it to take the driver's side cover off. The master was never an issue though, never it.
I switched to the hydraboost setup because I run a big solid roller cam and really didn't have enough vacuum to run the brakes. Hydraboost is awesome!!
I changed the wiper motor because I need to have access to adjust the rockers more often with the solid roller cam and I didn't want to scratch my newly painted firewall up during the wiper motor R&R.
Also my mounts are going bad. Between the front clip and the uni-body. Wouldn't that allow the distance between the 11" booster and the valve cover to be less? Just thinking out loud.
They sell boosters (and according master cylinders or combos) in all different sizes (with and without the Delco stamp), going from 7" to 12", at reasonable prices.
Hydroboost has been around for years and years, for most medium and light duty trucks. GMC/ Chevy use a hydroboost for the 2500 series and up trucks. Nice units, interestly, they share fluid with the steering systems.
Also, you can make valve cover spacers to add height to the standard valve covers. The spacers are painted the block color, and have the stock chrome valve cover over top to have a stealth look. I know someone who did this, and it looked like a good Idea, and not obvious unless you know it's there.