I need to get a radiator for the '68 Bird and the 455 going in.
Any recommendations out there? I don't need the aluminum bling factor. And I am not concerned with stock reproduction. I just want it to fit. Well, I want it to fit and cool as well as I can.
Also, should I get a unit with a trans cooler built in and/ or run an external as well?
Thanks!!
Dave
New to me '68 Conv. 350. 2 Speed. Red on Black.
455 on the stand getting ready to bolt up to a TH400.
It's a great radiator. Fit is excellent. It looks original. Many people like them. It's been about 7 years since I bought one so I don't have a recent source. I would Google the name and see who has the best deal.
There's more to the aluminum than the bling factor. Most people with them say their cars run considerably cooler after installing one.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I think the copper ones work fine. But Mark brings up a good point. Let's look at the science;
Aluminum vs. Copper
Copper has a better heat coefficient than aluminum, so you may ask why racing radiators are made from aluminum. It is about more than just the weight. Logic would dictate that you could make a radiator out of copper and it would be smaller, and consequently lighter, than an aluminum radiator due to the better heat coefficient. The real reason is that copper radiators are not all copper. They have a good percentage of lead in the copper that makes up the radiator core. This lead acts like an insulator and impedes the radiator's ability to reject heat. Another reason is that the braze material covering the copper as part of the core manufacturing process also impedes the heat transfer process.
1) Pontiacs are notorious for running hot. I read that all the time
2) When I started on this car, I lived in Arizona.
3) If I am going to completely rebuild the car, and originality is not going to be an issue, then I am going to go aluminum to prevent any trial and error.
Since I had to spring for a new radiator anyway, I went on the cautious side to prevent me from having to go aluminum after I had already gone with a new copper radiator.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
There are many mistakes that can be made to make your Pontiac engine run hot. If you don't make the mistakes, a copper radiator will do the job. On the other hand, an aluminum radiator will help overcome some of the other mistakes/problems that are common. I'm a firm believer that an electric fan is a waste of time and money. The only wise application for an electric fan is when you want to free up a couple HP from the fan belt.
'68 400 I had my rad re-cored.$200. 19" 6 blade flex fan. Stock shroud. 185 degree thermo. Been 1 year and no problems. I went with the re-core option because I didn't want to wait 6 weeks for a Rodney Red.
I also removed the electric fan that the P.O. installed. Seemed to me it was blocking airflow...
Also, lower temp thermostats don't necessarily make your engine run cooler...
I'm a hobbyist. Not a professional. Don't be hatin'!
It seems like they could make a serpentine belt system that would accommodate a stock style fan. I know nothing about aftermarket serpentine stuff, just common sense that you should be able to bolt a fan on the water pump pulley regardless of the belt/pulley type.