When I start my car it tries to kick but as soon as I leave go of the key it stops. It is a 67/400 w/air. Any Ideas would be helpfull. Thanks Much

Have you made any recent changes to the ignition switch or distributor or starter? Did it run previously, or is this a new set up?

I just replaced the HEI with a breakerless distributor. It started right up after I was done. Started it several times to set the timing. Took a lunch break and it hasan't startrd since. I'm think it is the resistor wire but I don't know were it goes to. Thanks for the reply.

What kind of breakerless ignition? And are you using the stock ignition wires (cloth covered resistor wire and other wire going to the coil)? HEI takes full 12V while some breakerless ignitions require a ballast resistor. Is it possible you fried the ignition with full 12V?

If I fried the ignition I don't think I would be getting spark during cranking. If I have this right I should get full 12V from the starter while cranking and then the voltage is reduced through the resistor wire. I think that is were my problum is because it will try to run as long as I hold the key in the start position. Thanks for the reply

You need a new power source. For some reason yours isn't working. You can use the ignition terminal on your fuse box.

Car looks real nice,

The circuit from the R terminal on the starter to the ignition circuit is open somewhere. Easiest fix is as Jim said, pick up a source for spark that comes the ignition-on tap.

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Vikki, Thanks for the responce. So it is not the resistor wire but the wire that comes from the Ignition switch to the starter and coil via the firewall junction block. So I need to check that I have power coming from the switch in the run position. then check the firewall junction block??????????

That would be the best way to fix it right. My way was just the fastest and easiest.... You could follow your ignition wire from the switch and check it for power in the START and RUN position.

Thanks Jim, I have power in the start position. Aslong as I hold the key in the start position the engine will run. When I go to the run position is when it quits. I have spark when cranking. I don't want to junk up the car with jumper wires. I'd rather take the time and fix it right.

You need to track down that pink wire that originally went to your coil. Trace it back to the bulkhead and replace it from there. Then you will be good to go and not cobbled with extra wires. The only other thing it could be is a bad connection at the bulkhead and that's not likely. When you start tracing the pink wire I think you will find your problem. There's also a slight chance it could be your switch. A little testing with a meter or a light bulb will quickly get you where you want to be.

Yes, ignition switches can be out of alignment and can fail; wires can push out of the harness connectors, wire strands inside the insulation can fracture from oxidation. First use a jumper from an ignition switched source (wiper motor, etc) to be sure it solves the problem. Then disconnect, and trace back or forward until you find where the power goes away.

Start at the coil + and with the ignition switch on, you should have a reading of about 9-10 v in reference to engine ground (not coil - ). Then trace back to where that wire comes out of its bundle and goes into the bulkhead connector. With a test light, should be voltage there. If not, go inside the car and test the ignition tap on the fusebox relative to ground. If no power there, check the ignition switch, horn relay, fuses, fusible links, and wiring for defects.