I had not driven my car in 4 years while I did body work and paint. I would regularly crank it and let it run though. Two weeks ago I finally get to take it for a drive and in five minutes it quit like it was out of gas. I towed it home and it cranked right up and ran perfect. I went and bought a new fuel pump and a clear fuel filter to see the flow. I did notice that the longer it runs it looks like the less fuel is in the filter. But even letting it run for 30 minutes it never quit. I took it for a drive today and in about 10 minutes it quit like it was out of gas. If I let it sit for a while it will crank and run about a minute or so and die again. I did this all the way home. I let it sit for 10 minutes in the drive way and now it runs great again. Any ideas as to what is going on?
Just drove it about 8 minutes to my mothers. Turned it off while I visited there about 10 minutes and picked up my youngest daughter then drove it home 8 minutes and everything was fine. I dont trust it to go any farther.
I had thought of that but it is different than just a line plugging. You have to wait a while and the longer you wait the longer it will run. I checked the vent line to be sure it was not stopped up.
I don't usually throw money at a problem. Based on the symptoms, and the signifigant handfull of possible causes, I would throw a new coil at it because coils fail in such a manner, and it can be almost impossible to detect the coil failure. After all, Uncle Murphy will make sure the car will fire anytime you test for spark.
It does sound like it could be a coil problem. But I would think David would notice that his plugs were soaked and that he was getting gas. If it's the coil and no spark you usually smell all kinds of gas.
No you don't. That would happen if the operator continuted to crank and pump without it starting. If it had a bad coil, and the throttleman operated/started the car correctly, a bad coil would net the same results as when the key is turned off.
Anyway, that't the way I would troubleshoot the problem, and I have established myself as one of the cheaper members, not buying anything I don't need. If you want to follow another game plan, by all means, don't let me influence you. It's a proven fact around here that I don't know jackshit about anything.
Next time it will not start just take a peek and see if the there's gas squirting in the carb. No sense arguing on here... just take a peek. If you haven't already.....
No you don't. That would happen if the operator continuted to crank and pump without it starting. If it had a bad coil, and the throttleman operated/started the car correctly, a bad coil would net the same results as when the key is turned off.
Anyway, that't the way I would troubleshoot the problem, and I have established myself as one of the cheaper members, not buying anything I don't need. If you want to follow another game plan, by all means, don't let me influence you. It's a proven fact around here that I don't know jackshit about anything.
nono, Merv , you do know stuff... and if you dont think you know Jack Schitt, check this out...that should change things...
I installed a clear fuel filter so I could see the fuel flow. The longer the car runs the less fuel flow I have. The last time it stopped on me when I got it back running there was minimal fuel flow if any. I quickly pulled the fuel line off the carb and a lot of air was in the fuel but it quickly cleared up and I had great flow again.
Maybe you have a bad new fuel pump? It wants to pump some air into the line. The only other thing could be the fuel is vaporizing. That would mean your fuel line is getting hot somewhere. You must not have a fuel return line.
I had the 'air in the line' problem once and the cause was a small leak in the rubber hose leading to the fuel pump. The pump will suck air if it can. Any leak in your fuel supply line can put a lot of air in the line.
They were on all the four barrel cars and the AC cars. It helps to keep the fuel cool and also stops vapor lock.
as Jim says , they were...may not be a problem though... my car was born a 2 bbl 350 car ...now a 400 4 bbl...no return line...have not had a problem in Texas heat for the 7 yrs, 22k miles I`ve had it...
Jim, To double check the fuel pump application per your question I looked at the part numbers for them. The book makes a distinction between 2 barrel and 4 barrel carbs and not engine size. I have to conclude that it's the carb size and not the engine size that dictated which fuel pump and a return line...
Jim, From the 67 service manual it states ( The vapor diverter on the A/C equipped six cylinder 4 bbl. engine is incorporated in the fule pump. Vapor diverters are standard equipment on all Firebird 400 cubic inch engines and on all other V-8 engines with air conditioning.)
I have replaced all the rubber lines I could get to. My next step is to drop the tank. I drove it about 8 minutes today and it ran fine but there is still a considerable difference in the amount of fuel flow I see in the filter from when I first crank it and after I drive it. I pulled the fuel line off the carb again oday and I get lots of air bubbles in the fuel. I am still too afraid to go long enough to see if it quits. I hate that. I guess I will have to just do it tomorrow.
You definitely are headed in the right direction by dropping the tank. Every 1st Gen Firebird owner should have seen the inside of their tank at least once.
Update. I dropped the tank. It was amazingly clean and rust free. I replace the pick up tube and sending unit assembly while it was out. Replaced the hose from the tank pick up tube to the metal line. Now all rubber hose has been replaced. While it was apart I also installed an accel 2010 points eliminator kit and a new coil. I have driven it around with no problems so far but have not gotten far from home only about 15 minutes. I am still not confident enough to go far. I guess this weekend I will get brave and try a short round trip locally and then just drive up and down the highway in front of my house for about an hour or so or until it quits.
So if you repaired the problem which part was at fault? I try to make one change at a time then you can make a good learning expierience of it. I wonder if the fuel sender pickup tube has a crack in it, the lower the fuel in the tank gets the shorter distance you are able to drive because it pulls air into the line. If you have a full tank you could drive it until it gets to the crack and starts pulling air again...
68 Firebird 400 Convt 33 option car:tilt, cruise, AC, 281 trim code leather interior, PDB,PS,P top,headrest, rear antena, Ralley 2's, TH 400, Speedminder speedo buzzer, clock, tinted windows, floor mats, remote mirror, door edge guards, remot decklid release, trunk lamp, saftey track rear, am fm radio, visor vanity mirror, custom seatbelts, console,heavy duty air cleaner, exhaust extensions, tinted glass- all. All factory installed total price $5121.18 !!!
Usually I only replace one item at a time when working on anything but I can not chance my car stopping on the road. Where I live there are no shoulders big enough to pull over if it stops. Due to the fact that the tank was perfect inside and the pickup tube still good I will have to assume it was the coil. But we all know what assume means. I guess I will never know but I just can't risk something happening to my car. Tomorrow will be the big test to see how she does.
Thinking back to the first "gas crisis", I rolled into the local Sunoco station in 1972, out of gas. I brought a pail of gas to the car and started it right up. I can't say bubbles are not an issue, but in the 50K miles I owned that bird, I never had bubbles stop me in my tracks. I don't see running out of fuel, bubbles or hearburn & indigestion causing starting issues for more than a moment or two.
My 82 truck weaps fuel though the carburetor. The only consequence is I need historic tags (emissions failure) and it takes longer to start after it's set a spell.
If you haven't already..... 
