Ok Cool engine starter turns over great, when hot seems to grind ( electrical sound) turns over slow.. Today I had it where it did nothing at all, turned the key and nothing.. (hot) engine... Cooled down and turned over...I'm going with the starter... any one recommend a high torque brand? thanks Ron H.

It is the solenoid.

Very common problem with Pontiacs.

Change the solenoid out for $13. There is also a different spring you can install with the solenoid, but do not have that part number off hand.

Trust me...solenoid. You have headers or manifolds?

Thanks Banshee, No headers, but when hot kind of makes a grinding noise,slow to turn.... electrical I'm sure, Ill try the solinoid..

Now more fun, the electric fuel pump is blowing 20 amp fuses.. This is the second holley red in threee years....

The Fuel pump...had a Holley red as well..I would bump up the gauge of the wire and run a 30 amp. If it continually blows them, I would look at a new pump. I personally never had a problem with powering, but I did install it accordingly.

Not electrical per se...more like a drawing too much current. Battery and alternator are likely fine. If you had a 550 CCA battery and it didn't start, you could use a 1000 cca battery and it would start, or use a heavy duty battery charger.

Or install a remote Ford solenoid and you will never have tha problem again.

Solenoid going in tomorrow if I can find one.

Is the electric fuel pump internal (tank) or external? The problem with external is having nothing but air to cool them. The problems with internal is running below a 1/4 tank most of the time, or running out of fuel. That will kill an electric pump darn quick.

After having to replace both types of electric pumps on numerous occasions, I'm happy living with a mechanical fuel pump on both my 'birds. If ya ever had to replace the electric fuel pump in a 4th gen, you would swear'em off.

Changed the starter today, Not too bad ,fuel pump ran for a min and boom there went a 20 amper, I'm going to run a new wire the put in a new pump on monday. The pump is mounted by the tank and the wire is run to the fuse panel. Any idea what gauge wire to use? I think use a heavier gauge than whats on there... Thanks for the ideas...

What's your battery voltage without the engine running? If the battery has a dead cell or is otherwise below spec in voltage, your electrical system will pull more amps and pop fuses, not crank, and the like.

Up and running, I took a heavier gauge wire and ran it from the fuse panel to the pump outside the car and it ran!!!!! I then rerouted the new wire and we are up and running. The old wire was chaffed and grounding out in a small very small spot.Now I'm going to reduce the fuse in the box to a 10 amp. from 15 amps.The new starter is in also, it turns over fine when hot.Thanks for all the help.I think I was up against some multiple problems.
Ron

Did you go with a full starter/solenoid R&R or just a solenoid?

Robert

Went with the r+r starter,my buddy owns a parts store and gave me a price I could not refuse.....

Keep track of the date you replaced it. I'll be curious to see how long it is before you begin to have the prob again(if ever). 6mos, a year, 2years. I usually write it on the garage wall. That way I don't lose my records.

Robert

It's been noted Bob I've been down this road before ,LOL

I have a brand new starter and I am already having that problem hot 1 year and 2000 miles later ...mind you the starter heat shield is still on the rack, so maybe I will try putting that on tonight. I checked the battery as soon as I got home and it sat at 13.10v right after shut off, so once it settles down from the charge I suspect it's fine.

Definitely put on the heat shield. I wound up eventually putting a high torque starter on my Catalina to avoid the issue all together, but I frankly hate the way it sounds when starting. Worse than an old Dodge.

If it happens with the bird, I will just deal with it.

All ran well today even when heat soaked. Time will tell

I'll bet getting under there and putting that shield on now is going to be a bear!

I am also experiencing this and just received my heat shield today from CI. Every now and then, I have to wrap on the solenoid to get it to engage. Hoping the shield will provide some relief from this.

Bob

I use a Pontiac heat shield I bought from one of the catalogs. I don't remember which one. It was not original to fgf's but it works very well. It was not hard to install. You just loosen some bolts and slip it in.

The little heat shield that goes on the solenoid didn't do much to help my hot start issue. After the time I got stuck at the gas station on the way home from a GGs show and had to have help to push it out and down the street I decided that was enough. Pretty embarassing having it all shined up and looking good and then having to push it to get it started. I bought a mini and it was good for about a year before I started having probs with it too. I'm looking into ceramic coating for the LBs. Still searching for the final solution.

Robert

Years ago we wrapped my starter with heat shield from a F-4 worked great. The next time I'm out in Tuscon I'm going to hop the fence and grab some more from the bone yard. Hey isn't there a FGF membember in Tuscon? Lets send him over to the Bone yard I think theres still some F-4s out there....

After 5 years of ever-slowing cranking, I finally got around to changing my starter. I had swapped the solenoid the first year, it didn't help. I had put new battery clamps on the cables. That helped some.

I removed the tired old starter and cable, and found the cable had a 4" section bare of insulation where it passes near the manifold and head pipe.

I installed a Bosch stock replacement starter, along with the spring ring reproduction cable from American Autowire. It's only a 4 gauge cable, so my expectations were not too high. I sheathed the cable with MSD ignition shield, which is silicone over a braided insulating core, and sheathed the wires coming out of the tube all the way to the terminals.

The car cranks FAST now. Just like a new car. Cold startup is a lot easier as the fuel is still vaporized while ignition fires it. I should have done this years ago.

The true test will be at the Dream Cruise, with hot start with full heat soak.

Anybody wrap their headers or manifolds to cut down on the heat?

Did I kill the thread?????

I have a factory set up with long branch manifolds and the metal tube for the starter wires. Factroy style starter, cables and battery. I'm wondering how long it will be before I have stating issues. I have it running but not yet driving. Those factory battery cable are pretty small.

I have heard of people using rubber hose to cover the batter cables to keep them isulated from heat.

Only time will tell.