It's a new year, and now that its getting warm time for more work on the car to get it streetable.

I purchased a RobbMc starter with both the "R" and "S" starter solenoid to put in. I wanted to keep my new factory 4 Gauge battery cables, but if it I still has any hint of hard starting I'm going to a 2 Gauge battery cable. Now I can get the starter in and out without removing the exhaust manifold. YAH! More testing to come to see if address the hot start issue. I did idle it a while and restart and it seemed to work great. With my old starter it didn't take very long of idling before it would have a hard time turning over. The cranking sound will take some getting use to.

I put in the supplied washer shim to space the gear farther away from the flex plate and had to use all 6 of the starter shims I could find to get the gear clearance right.






I also bought a new fuel sending unit. This has been the 5th time I have had to drop the tank. Guess what? Its still a huge PITA!

The prices seemed to vary greatly depending on who you bought the sending unit from. Some companies list the 68 as discontinued and others listed it as 67-69. This one I got from Classic Industries for around $50 bucks and was listed as a 69 unit.

There was some very subtle differences but for the price it worked very well. The only thing I didn't like was where the electric connection attached it didn't have a tight fit like the original.





Its always nice to test the resistance first. I really don't want to drop the tank again later.

rohrt, please send me the part number for that sending unit. I need the same one and nobody carries it locally.

You have come a LONG way since I checked last.

Classic Industries #6428322. Sold as a 69 unit. I found little difference between my original 68 unit and the new 69 unit I bought.

Thanks my friend.

Another frustrating day in the garage. The task, to get the convertible top lined up. Since I could not dig up any info on steps. I just winged it.

Step 1. I bought new rollers for the 1/4 windows and installed the new metro weather seals.







This all went together pretty well. I saw that I had some rust in one of 1/4 window's chrome weather seal retainers. I pulled out one of my HT 1/4 windows and remembered they are not the same. Not sure if I could pull the chrome off with out ruining it. So I used the one I had.

Step 2. Install weather channel for the door glass to windshield. It took a while to figure this out. I wasn't sure it the chrome weather channel was even for a convertible or what screws it used.



I decided these must be the screws. I striped one out. Crap!



I found one good pic in my Year One Cataloged that helped me figure out how the chrome channel was installed and how the weather strip should be installed. It all made sense once it was together.



I decided that the chrome channel needed a better seal so I added a tar strip. I have used this stuff a lot putting this thing together.





Step 3 Adjust the door glass. It made the most sense to start here since the windshield is fixed. I had to peal back the weather striping and adjust the chrome channel several times. Top up, top down. Tilt the glass. Roll it down, roll it up, and check the fit.

Step 4 Install 1/4 window felt. What a PITA! A little grinding, a little drilling, a lot of swearing. Done. The metal on the felt had some sharp ends that I needed to smooth out. for the most part the metro parts were not to bad

Step 5 Adjust the 1/4 window. The best method I found was have the wife hold the 1/4 glass in place with everything loose. Get the adjusters in place and tighten up. My glass had a little wiggle in it so just a little further adjustment was need after that. Then Top up. Top down, window up window down.





The real frustration is the Windows would roll up and seal pretty good, but if I opened and close the door the seal would catch a little at the windshield. If I lifted the top than put it back down the top would not fall in place very well and required the windows to be rolled down a little and back up. It didn't help that all the new rubber seal on the top were kinda sticky. One of my 1/4 windows also had a little play in it that would allow it to [censored] up to 1/4 inch or so.

Step 5. Adjust the top. About the only adjustment I made was when I had a big gap behind the 1/4 glass. There are 3 big bolts that I loosened on the main hinge that let it fall in place.

Total time working on both sides. 12hours

I also made my self a stool.

[img]http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/46932/2745614760055925676S425x425Q85.jpg[/img]

I like that stool!

I wanted to see how the SEM Black vinyl dye work and it came out pretty well. I have a few blochy spots that I don't like but over all I'm happy with the results. All my seats still need replaced but this is a cheap way to get by for now. I wish I would have got a before picture while it was covered with 14 years of barn dust and bird crap.






As I prep for the convertible top I got the rain gutter installed. Mine is in pretty bad shape with cracks and broken mounting locations, but not so bad that I want to buy a new one for $150. I see the factory did not use all the mounting locations, so I used some self taping screws in those locations.



I used some RTV to keep the crack in the gutter. from leaking.



The well trim used a #6 x ½ sheet metal screw. I only had two factory holes in my pinch weld for the trim. I used some #6 self taping screws for the other locations.



I used some butyl on the bottom of the pinch weld. Some one here suggested that and I saw evidence this was used in the past. Getting the trim on was no easy task. I had about 5 hours wrapped up in it by the time I was done. Rubber hammer, taped around the painted area, dermal tool, re-drilled one spot on the weather stripping, push, pull, swear. I think it came out pretty well. I’m not sure how many clips the trim should have, but I put in eight, I think. Two in each strait run. Its not going any where.





The last think I noticed was I can't get the top all the way down without the rubber weather seal for the back 1/4 window hitting on something. I have more then 10 hours trying to get the top lined up and I'm still not happy with it. Arn't hobbies suppose to bring you enjoyment?

I had to pull the rear end out and get it looked at. It had a bad clunk due to me not setting the pre load correctly. I had a Eaton Posi put in too.



They don't sell axle flang gaskets so I made some.









I got the dremal tool out and did some polishing on the ash trays. It worked pretty good.

The wheel trim was very time consuming. The backs went on fairly well since I had to drill out all the holes, but trying to use the factory holes on the front was frustrating. I could get most of them but not the ends at the bottom. I did my best to minimize the gaps by using the dremal to re-shap the holes.









Here was the starting point for all the trim.


I installed Damplifier Pro on the floors. I don't think its all that great for eliminating noise. I was surprised at how thin it is.




A few of the parts for the convertible top.



and

Ta da..

Tops on. This was done by Bobs Auto Interior in Center point, IA. I had him buy the top, pads and put in the tach strips. Nice guy too. Just a little over a grand for it all. He even fixed my back seat where the hog ring pliers had pulled out. Very hapy with his work.

Lookin good. Spittin image of mine cept I have the deluxe interior....Awesome! Think I will try some of that dremel work on my rear ashtrays.....I did some buffing with the big wheel but the dremel would be better for the slots....

Working some late nights to get the car interior together.

This is the dual coil speaker from CI







Here is the antenna I got from CI as well.
It was a very good quality pice. Most likeley the nicesest thing I ever got from CI. Heavy cast pieces with good quality chrome. It came with the rubber groment on the cable. Perfect fit too. well worth the $50 I spent.


My factory AM radio Sounds killer now.

Is your antenna front or rear mount?

That is the same speaker I installed a few weeks ago for the reproduction AM/FM radio. Works nice.

That is a front antenna. I'm jelouse you have the am/fm reproduction radio. How do you like it? I will be saving for that once I get all the bugs worked out of mine and that may take a while.

Some pics of the interior progress.





What I don't have a pic of yet is the kick paneal. What a PITA to install. I knew I needed to remove the emergency brake but I didn't know about taking the fuse panel and hi beam swich out. Even with this stuff out of the way it was not fun for either side.

Rohrt!
How is the RobbMC starter working out for you?
You mentioned the sound... does it sound much different than a 'regular' starter?
I just ordered one.

Do you have any speakers other than the center dash one?

You had to remove the E Break assembly, fuse panel, AND hi beam switch to get the drivers kick panel out?!? Any tips on removal?

THanks for sharing your rebuild!

Car is looking great! How does that dual cone front speaker sound? I am putting one in the LeMans soon just curious if you are happy with the sound...

Joe - I put one in our bird and hooked up the radio to it. Sound pretty darn good.

Great! I am glad to hear that, the LeMans needs tunes!

The starter is great. Lot of room to pull it out with the LBM and turns the engine over with the small factory starter cables. It does have a mini starter sound to it. I can live with it.

I only have the center speaker for now but I did run some speeaker wire to the back. I have the crappy AM radio in it for now until I purchase the AM/FM unit. So I can't tell how well the speaker performs just yet.

I think the drivers kick panel comes out a little easier then it goes back in as long as you don't strip the head of the five screws. The more you can remove around it the better.

I have a dual cone speaker as well, and I found that it rattles at idle with the original mount bracket. I believe it is due to the heavier weight vs. the original. It drives me crazy...ah ah.. like know one else... oops, I'm digressing (fine young canibals).

When I get the interior back together eventually, I will need to brace it better. The rattle was very annoying.

Well since I'm up. I might as well update this.

I got the door panel together and installed. Not a fun job but to do it yourself is 1/4 the cost of assembled. See the interior section for the whole storey.


As they came out of the box.


Finished and installed in the car.


I also swapped out my Texas TA mufflers that came with my RARE exhaust kit with Dynomax super turbos. Much happier with the sound. I was getting Drone almost from just past idle to 2800RPM now I get just a little when accelerating around 2200RPM. I think the volume is half what it was, and I may be wrong but the exhaust smells better and the MPG seems to have improved.



Now that the car is together I will be working on all the things I don't like.

Hard starting when hot due to carb heat soak.
So I will block the exhaust cross over, insulate the fuel line and put in a phenolic 1/4 spacer under the quadrajet.

ARG Power steering not working at an idle. Need to see if the power piston is stuck. I also have a power steering cooler for it. Since it was a 69 only thing I'm not sure I want to install it now.

I have a fuel starvation issue under heavy acceleration. New plan for that is a step "buy" step approach. I want to buy a pre bent 1/2 line from inline tube first. Then the RobbMC fuel sending unit second if all that fails then the RobbMC fuel pump.

I also have some part throttle ping issues that irritate me. I might try some heavier springs in the advance. When I filled up with 93 during the Hot Rod power tour, I couldn't hear it, but all I can get in Cedar Rapids is 91.

My biggest issue is the car is not as fast as it should be. This engine was in my boat of a 77GP and it would fly. My bird should be about 600lbs lighter. I need to check that the carb is opening up all the way now that the carpet is in. I also want to check the secondary air flap tension spring and see if I need to open them a little sooner.

The list goes on and on. May not get it all done this summer.

Panels look great! Remember, working on these cars is like eating an elephant...one bite at a time