I've searched here, but don't seem to find any threads regarding which oils to use. I've seen references to ZDDP and read on the GTO forum where synthetics are unsuitable for our vintage ehgines, but nothing specific. I always used Kedall GT-1 racing oil back in the day, 50 weight as I recall, for racing. It's my understanding that the formulation of that oil now is nothing like it was 40 yrs. ago. Do any of you have recommendations for the occaisional use I expect my engine to see when and if it's up and running again? The Brad Penn oil, one of the listers mentioned, appears to be close to the original Kendall GT-1, so I'm leaning toward it.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.html

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

General consensus around here seems to be Shell Rotella T for diesel's.

GM now carrier the EOS again and can be found here to add to the above oil for added protection:


http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=1052367

Link to thread:

Oil

I use Valvoline race oil usually...

That's very interesting, thanks for the response. One of the motorcycle forums I belonged to also recommended using Shell Rotella because of its cost, availability & performane. I've not looked, but if I understand correctly, Wal-Mart sells Shell Rotella oil in synthetic and dinosaur. Is Rotella diesel oil strictly dinosaur & does it come in just one weight? Again, thanks for the response.

Valvoline racing oil is the 1st racing oil I ever used and might have been the 1st racing oil sold in my area. Over 40 yrs. ago I had used regular Penzoil in my '64 Olds Cutlass when the Valvoline racing oil was introduced. Back then they sold chemicals to add just before an oil change when changing oil brands. I used it, made the switch, but afterward, my engine started burning oil. I always attributed the oil consumption to the flushing chemical & not Valvoline.

Here's a bulletin issued by Valvoline this past June that contains some interesting information regarding zinc:

http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf

OK, putting on my helmet.

I believe once an engine is broken in, high concentrations of ZDDP is not nessesary.
My 1st 2 FB's got 30w Valvoline. Only driven summer months.
67-400/4 spd & 70 RAIII 400 in my 68 FB(then a 455 with the RAIII top end-very high compression with a 150 shot of n2o).
Never had a wear problem.

After 33 years, still use the same 30w in my street car, and VR-1 in my street/strip car.
Tony @ BES rec's VR-1 in all race engines.
Thats all he'l use in his engine builds.

I am not convinced that ZDDP is unnecessary after break-in. I've seen a lot of cams go flat in the past two years on engines that have otherwise had no issues and have been properly maintained. I think it's likely even more important on engines that are run intermittently...weekend drivers, summer cruisers, where the oil drains down completely between uses...than daily drivers.

The current Rotella T diesel oil offers insufficient ZDDP for protection. They changed the formulation to meet federal regulations.

Use a high quality racing oil, or a high quality automotive oil with a high quality additive.

My builder uses Brad Penn 10W-30 racing oil. I'm switching all my 'birds over once my stock of old Rotella is gone. It has 1500 ppm ZDDP.

If you research those cam failures, most if not all are Comp cams xe grinds with thier 995(or is it 997) springs.

Also two stock original Pontiac cams with Pontiac springs in my own collection.

Heard you where hard on your cars.
What oil did you use?

From a Nova forum: OK so far the oils I have absolute confidence in are as follows.

#1 Brad Penn. racing..... (Old kendall GT1 formula)
#2 Penzoil racing
#3 champion Brands Racing XP SAE 20w50 1600 ppm zinc

Let me say that I do not use Synthetics in my car so I have not explored them as much. I am considering them for the nova.

Synthetics
listed by Zinc content

Mobil1 racing T4 zinc ppm 1600
Mobil1 15W50 with the gold cap zinc ppm 1300/1400
Mobil1 15W50 with silver cap zinc ppm 1300/1400

EDIT look at this Mobli1 15W50 silver cap dated 12/6/07

Here's a VOA provided by CTC Analytical Services of Phoenix, AZ and reported in a recent issue of Full Throttle magazine:

Silicon: M1 15W-50: 9ppm
Boron: M1 15W-50: 228ppm
Sodium: M1 15W-50: 13ppm
Magnesium: M1 15W-50: 43ppm
Calcium: M1 15W-50: 2464ppm
Phosphorus: M1 15W-50: 1193ppm
Zinc: M1 15W-50: 1315ppm
Molybdenum: M1 15W-50: 90ppm

Also: <quote; Here is my 2cents. I have read a lot about this from this site and a bunch of others. My final was to use CASTROL 20W-50 Syntec. It says right on the back of the bottle of oil "Recommended For Classic Cars". There web site says this is the only oil in there line that conforms to 60"s cars with flat tappet cams. That was enough for me. What do you think? >

I just got off the phone with Castrol. They claim a min. of 1200 ppm zinc... for the 20W50 and that is the only oil thay make that they will tell you what the zinc content is. All the rest of there oils are API Sm compliant. which means 800 ppm zinc and phos. or less.

In my opinion 1200 PPM is going to be the absolute minimum to keep moderate to stock cams alive... If you run a rowdy cam add a supplement like the STP red Bottle for zinc fortification if you are Loyal to the Castrol.

I looked at the data sheet... The data sheet does not list any of the ingredients in the oil. just sheer points and vapor temps... Kinda weird.. But the person on the phone keep telling me when I asked about amounts or maximums that all that info was proprietary and not for public knowledge. >

I personally prefer Castrol 10W40 (dino) with STP red bottle to help boost the zinc %. I also have been reading good things about the Brad Penn oil, so I may give it a try.

I use the full syn Mobil 1 in my Beemer and Blazer and have noticed they do run better on full syn. There is controversy in the Beemer groups about full syn in the early oil heads ('94-'00). But both of the mills were designed with lower ZDDP in mind, so I don't have any worries.

I have no idea what the previous owner had in my car when I drained it, but the oil was not sour or overly dirty. I have a '67 400 with the factory cam that has been out of service for 10+ years, little wear on the factory cam. No sludge in the engines either, just badly worn cams on otherwise good engines. Old Yellow Bird is still running the flat cam until I decide to park it for a while to take care of all the issues.

I am starting a collection of dead cams. LOL.

I was just raz'n you

My issue of Haggerty's bi-monthly newsletter has a two page article about classic car oils and the ZDDP issues.

If anyone is interested, I can PDF the article.

But it looks like most of the info posted here is identical.

Vikki, does your builder use the conventional or synthetic blend Brad Penn 10W-30 racing oil? Found this article - http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_0802_pontiac_performance_engine_oil/brad_penn.html

Brad Penn Break In Oil, 30W for break in, then 10W-30 synthetic blend PG-1 "Green Oil" for regular use.

And it really, truly is green. Like a Christmas Tree in the precut lot.

Kelly or forest green?

I have tracked the problem of ZDDP for a while. Over on the Team Chevelle board they have huge debates that have settled on the following. Rotella has lowered it's zinc ratings so the best bet now is Chevron Delo 400. Also Penzoil GT Racing is high in both zinc and price. Harley oil is also being used for the ZDDP content.
If anyone is interested their is a sticky on their board with all the test results from the oils being used in high spring rated , Hydraulic cams .

I now use ZDDP Plus additive to the Pennzoil conventional oil (but ZDDP deprived as mandated) oil I have used for the past 39 years and 178,000 miles in my car. See: http://www.zddplus.com/index.htm

Explore the site in detail. It appears that racing oils may satisfy some ZDDP needs but lack other stuff needed for use in street vehicles.

You have to remember that (zddplus)website is trying to sell a product and will tell you what you want to hear to sell their product.I'm not saying it's no good but would like to hear it from an independant source.

Here is another article on the ZDDP conundrum..

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_0802_pontiac_performance_engine_oil/index.html

I bought a few bottles of ZDDPPlus, but I think I will switch to Brad Penn's Penn Grade 1 10w-30. Direct Distributor is near by. I can get it slightly cheaper by buying direct and no shipping.

http://www.beaverpetroleum.com/

I picked up some Cam Shield from a booth at the Lake George show and loaded up my crankcase. I've got Rotella in there now. It can't hurt.

What about Mobil's Delvac 15w40 1300 Super for GM's new Duramax 6.2 diesels.
Any info on it?