Years ago I was drag racing my car, had my hood open in the pits and was approached by a gentleman who was very concerned. He had noticed the rubber in one of my motor mounts was broken & felt if I continued racing, the engine could possibly flip up and smash my hood. I was a horrified until another gentleman pointed out the metal parts of the mount had a slot & "t" design to limit the amount of movement. So, I continued to race & was never concerned. That was about 40 yrs. ago. Now I'm thinking replacing the mounts is a good idea & am wondering if the aftermarket parts utilize the original design that keeps the (2) metal parts from coming completely undone. The photos I'm finding at Rock Auto.com & others aren't that detailed.
LATER:
After posting this, I found a photo, of Rock City's Anchor brand mount on Amazon.com, large enough to see it appears to have the locking "T" arrangement. Any confirmation would still be appreciated.
Last edited by bluesman77; 09/13/0811:00 PM.
Jim Hudson Wooster, OH 1967 Firebird 400 4-Speed Coupe 11,556.7 original miles - some a 1/4 mile at a time
From what I have heard and experienced, Miti mounts are better than the current crop of aftermarket (repro) mounts.
My repro mounts from Ames caused it to be a real pain to get my tranny mount lined up and my engine sits too low.
I have to pull my motor/tranny to replace a bad oil pan seal and I'm going with Miti mounts this time.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Thank you for the advice. I have a stack of catalogs from Year one, Ames, Classic, Padock, etc. and Miti doesn't ring a bell. I even Googled itm & came up dry - who sells them?
I have a feeling when & if I get mine running again, it's probably going to leak like a sieve. My wife's '70 GTO's rear seal would pour oil when 1st started in the Spring after Winter hibernation and that's when it was new! As the engine came up to temperature, it would stop - not even a drop. I have a feeling mine's going to gush & continue to do so even after it's run. At least I have no power accessories or A/C to deal with when it comes time to pull the engine. Anyhow, it would be a good time to install new mounts & switch from my 9.5# Schiefer flywheel back to the stock boat anchor.
Jim Hudson Wooster, OH 1967 Firebird 400 4-Speed Coupe 11,556.7 original miles - some a 1/4 mile at a time
OW...OW...OW! My goodness - they don't give those things away, do they? Please tell me that price gets you a pair. For that kind of money, the mounts ought install themselves or they should at least have the decency to wear a mask & hold a gun to your head when you pay.
Thanks, I'm going to have to ponder that purchase for a while. Out of curiosity, how brutal would the solid mounts be that I've seen advertised or are they for racing only?
Last edited by bluesman77; 09/14/0808:40 PM.
Jim Hudson Wooster, OH 1967 Firebird 400 4-Speed Coupe 11,556.7 original miles - some a 1/4 mile at a time
I would not use solid mounts. The rubber is there for isolation. In normal usage the frame mounts and block lugs would take a beating without isolators.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
I bought a pair from a regular seller on Ebay. Not sure who the seller was but they fit perfectly and we just had them out last week when we changed the rear main seal and after one year and 7k miles they were in perfect condition. They were just repop/stock type mounts...
OK, now that I have read the PY thread, where can the rest of us get the Anchor mounts?
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Only seen Mity mounts in photo's. Talked to a couple people that did buy'm. Seems the only dif is they weld a rod to one side of the mount for added strenght. HPP did a tech article a long time ago about doing it yourself. Would need a welder though.
Yep, I just moved here and am still in a hotel. The hotel gets pretty packed on home game Saturdays.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
