Hello I live in Charlotte NC and own a 1969 Firebird Convertible. I posted some pictures on this site a couple years ago. Sorry this is so long, I get to the questions at the bottom, but really want to tell the story so people know how clueless I am on the matter I guess.
Haven't been here in awhile, but this week I got a new convertible top on my Firebird, it looks great and while it was in there I had them fix the hydraulics, had to replace the motor tubes and cylinders. The guy had called me and told me that the convertible switch was bad, then had called back to say they got it working (not sure what they did) but that it was in bad shape and might need to be replaced if he couldn't get it to work right. He called me back a couple days later and let me know that the switch worked but was flaky and that he would try to get a new one, but had called around and had little luck finding a new switch for a 69 convertible, told me he could show me how to work with the switch when I picked the car up. I picked the car up today and the top looks great and of course the first thing I did was play with the top (I had never had the power top in working condition) The switch was still hanging out of the dash a little and I could see the 3 wires going to it. The guy (Fred) came out and showed me the deal with the switch and told me that while he had been messing with it is had arced and started smoking and he thought there must be no fuse going to the switch, also the switch gets hot when you use it. He told me that he would hate for it to catch the car on fire and that it was dangerous, we went in and called NPD and they did say they didn't have that switch but sounded like they were getting slammed with calls or something. After getting home and messing with the switch a little more, I wrapped more electric tape around the back and the wires on the switch, I am pretty sure there is no bear wire on the switch now, if I bend the wire a little one way it starts the motor going down, I would think the short might be in the wire itself but I am not sure. the switch does get hot and I am surprised that much juice goes through that switch to make it hot like that.
So I guess what I am asking is, do you think I need a new switch? if so then where could I find it, hopefully fast so I can take my car to a car show that's coming up. I am almost scared to drive it with out a new switch, for that matter it may just start the mottor while the car is in the garage, blow the motor on it just running. If there really is no fuse to the switch, is that right? couldn't I just add one inline? Is it better to get a original switch or is there a better newer switch that I can just put in, I like for it to look original but if it isn't safe then I can use a new one and just keep the old one so if I ever sell it , ill have it.
Just to tide you over you should be able to use a 3 position toggle switch in place of your top switch. You need an on-off-on type toggle switch and should be able to get it at the local auto parts store. The heat you feel is probably from bad contacts arcing inside the switch. The plastic inside the switch has probably melted down a bit over time and this is why you can run the top motor by wiggling the wires around. Center wire should be either power supply or ground. Other 2 wires should be top up and top down. Classic industries lists two top switches for the 69. Part number F2354 looks like the one you need or part number K3644 which is cosmetically different. You should be able to see them and order one online at www.classicindustries.com
Dont know much on the switch but if you leave the car sitting PLEASE unhook the battery for saftey sake. I had a 69 camaro 1 year ago that caught fire and burned completly up due to electrical short and it was just sitting still parked.
Stephen
Maybe someday I will get this thing off the road to do a full restoration
Thanks alot for the info guys, that helps alot. I will try to go get a new switch tommorrow somewhere, and order the one that looks right and change it out later. Thanks again.
If they replaced the motor,check the ground point behind the seat. It is possible that it isn't grounding good. That isn't how my luck runs but yours may be different. Barry.
I am going to order the one from www.classicindustries.com and maybe also a set of those rubber knobs that hopefully I can put in to the folding mechanism and protect the top a little from getting pinched. I inserted a 25 amp inline fuse behind the switch and have popped it a couple times now, but hopefully it will be ok till I get the new switch in.
New pictures are just plain better camera also, but I have replaced the front and leaf springs, new tires and now top, had good bit of engine work done, but it runs really nice. I have never checked the numbers on it.
BTW i just wanted to add, I did get the new switch and it installed really easy, got to love that! but I do think the old switch was better looking, it was solid metal around the switch and definitely the original, I will keep it just for kicks, but the new switch looks good and besides the fact that it has a sticker on the switch for the words UP & DOWN, works allot better than the old one that had a short in it. The power top functions and looks great now, One problem I do have is if I put the top down all the way some of the new material gets pinched in the folding hardware on the sides, just a little, but over time I hope it don't hurt the top.
jsdeprey, Also check to make sure you have the inline (for lack of a better description right now) Circut breaker. It should be mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment, just above the brake booster/master cylinder. It will be a small rectangle relay type bolted to the firewall with two posts on it, and a wire on each post. This is for the power top and power windows.
(I know it well for the 67/68's just not sure if they changed it at all for 69?) So maybe check the manuals too, just to cross reference?