I am looking for a cam for my 350. Currently installed in my '68 bird is a '71 YN Block, #94 heads (long story on the dog motor...), '68 GTO 4bbl intake, T10 tranny and 3.55 rear end. I will be installing #13 heads. I like the 068 cam, but have also looked at Summit cams #2800 and #2801. I am concerned that the Summit cams might have too much lift for my application. I will probably run the new cam while the #13 heads are being built. 2nd question, will my current push rods work, or should I invest in the p. rod length checker?

I run the Summit 2801 in my 350 and I'm pretty happy with it. It doesn't have a lopey idle, pulls good vacuum, and is good from idle to 5,700 RPM. For me it's a great "all-around" cam. When I purchased the cam I bought new pushrods, and Comp Cam steel roller rockers.

Thanks for the reply. What heads are you using and are your push rods standard length?

I have the 68 #17 heads with stock length pushrods for a 1968 engine.

The only reason to change the length of the pushrods is if you change the length of the valves or if you switch to poly-locks.

Q

Or..... if your block has been decked and heads machined, if you do not put in poly locks, or measure and put in the correct lenth rods you will get valve float around 4 grand or worse.....

Yep, there are those things, too ... and probably a few more, though normal block and head surfacing combined probably wouldn't amount to more than .020 or so, unless you are going for some serious performance changes.

Q

Researching this cam has brought up another question. How much lift will the stock springs handle? Most of the aftermarket cams I see produce more gross lift than the .408/.407 lift of the factory 068 cam. Will the .442/.465 lift on the Summit 2801 cam cause spring bind?

That's a Banshee question if ever the was one. Most stock dual spring set ups won't bind until about .500" but Tom (Banshee) will know for sure.

Q

When I bought the Summit K-2801 cam it came with its own lifters. I purchased matching valve springs (not a dual coil either), matching pushrods (hardened), Cool nuts (adjustable, locking, rocker arm nuts), Comp cams steel roller rockers, screw-in studs (heads were tapped to accept these). I used the stock pushrod guide plates.

When you swap out a cam you should also match the rest of the valvetrain to the cam profile. If you don't you will only run into headaches later on. The biggest problem being valve float and possible valve/piston contact.

BTW the reason I chose this cam was because Pontiacwarriors.com (site no longer exists) used dyno simulation software with this cam (among others) in a stock 350 with #17 heads and a dual plane intake and it produced 372HP/394lb-ft torque. Again this was a simulation but those numbers are respectable.

Here is the original link:

http://www.pontiacwarriors.com/dyno/350/193/dyno_350_193_Summit_2081_DualPlane.htm

Great info. any thought regarding using the 2801 with my current #94 heads? (small valves, pressed studs). My #13 heads will not be ready for a while. I'm shopping for a machine shop as the local guy estimated 700 bones for a basic valve job if I supply the valves...

You need a new guy. Tom (Banshee) has a set of great #13 heads with all new hardware (and guides) for that kind of money. Support him, instead.

K-2801 with #94 heads will be a little too much cam and not enough compression. You will be disappointed, IMHO.

Q

PS: Is MD/Totco still in your neighborhood?

My #17 heads were baked, shotpeened, magnafluxed, machined for flatness, 3 angle valve job, tapped for screw-in studs, new valve guides installed, fully assembled for $200. So Q is right, find another machine shop.

That's a great deal! I called another place, got a quote for $400.00. so I'm headed in the right direction.

Q, I happend to drive by the Totco building last month. I assume they are still here, it was on a weekend though so the lot was empty