To start off this may be a long post. Alright, First problem is I am having trouble getting intake to seal to timing cover. Removed intake and replace gasket and seal now it is leaking worse then before. Followed all instruction proberly and even replace bolt that pulls intake tight to timing cover but still coolant leak. Any thounghts on this? Maybe surface on timing cover is bad? This is a 1 year old edelbrock performer RPM intake.
Second problem is The gasket I am using is Mr. gasket part # 5848, Same gasket I used 1 year ago when putting new intake on engine. Gasket has close out for exhaust crossover but when I removed intake yesterday old gasket was BURNED out for crossover so it was then open. I know when installing gasket 1 year ago it was closed out.
Third problem, but all problems seem to be connected together in some way. I had many problems with overheating last summer when new intake was added, Winter didn't seem to be as bad but temp still acked funny at times. Today I started engine up after letting gasket seat over night and retorqued all bolts, but after shutting engine off I could hear a noise in both heads that was never there it was a TINK,TINK,TINK metal noise (Capitalise to give better felling of how loud this nois was) comeing from inside valve covers. Last summer I had an infered heat sensor and aimed it at cylinder heads near exhaust ports while running and temp was around 600 degres and the rest of cylinder heads were around 350-400, the rest of engine was around normal temp. Could my heads be burring up some how? collant stoped up from flowwing thru? I have heard somewhere that 400 cylinder head gaskets are different the 350 engines but don't know what previous owner did to engine (many things have been shade tree worked on) I hate to remove heads as I have had many problems with removing other thing on engine to replace as previos owner half a**ed and striped out many bolts. I could go on and on right now but will hold up till I get some responses on this one. I am calling all troops so if you ever had sutch a problem or know someone who has or know about cylinder heads PLEASE give me some advice.
Stephen
Maybe someday I will get this thing off the road to do a full restoration
Did you torque down the manifold before you tightened the water pump to manifold bolt? You need to tighten the manifold bolts and tighten the water pump bolt sort of at the same time. Also, you can use a little silicone on the rubber washer.
If you did all these things and it still leaks, something is out of whack.
Make sure you run a tap down the hole where that long bolt goes in, too. I have NEVER found an aftermarket manifold where that bolt hole is threaded deep enough. You can torque all day on that bolt and be doing nothing more than buggering up the last few threads on that bolt, and then it gets dang hard to remove.
Ditto on checking to be sure that rubber donut is in there.
Also, if your exhaust ports are only running 600 degrees, consider your motor running cool.
All intake gaskets are the same: 326, 350, 400, 428 and 455.
Well little rubber washer is in place, tapped all bolt hols for intake bolts and bolt for intake to timing cover seal. I started all intake bolts in then torqued bolt for timing cover then torqued intake bolts. Someone told me not to use any sealent on little rubber washer but maybe I should of. Any thounghts on why old gasket was burned out for exhaust cross over? I know it was closed out because I used same gasket when replacing friday and new one was closed out.I know old one was burned out because it wasn't completly open and you could see whree it was burnt.
Stephen
Maybe someday I will get this thing off the road to do a full restoration
the heat from the exaust causes that.pontiacs have a built in exaust equealizer built into the intake thus eliminating the need for a crossover pipe in the exaust system.as far as the leak,i always use sealent on it and torque the manifold to the timing cover before i fully tighten the manifold.
You need to get all new intake gasgets and start over. Use a hone and smooth the surface on the back of the timing cover where the rubber washer rests. You may have a deep scratch which will seal if you use a gasget sealer. Give the sealer some time to cure before you fire up the engine. Make sure you use the correct torque pattern and torque readings on the intake. Sometimes you have to use a thick washer on the long bolt that pulls the intake to the timing cover. Sometimes the hole is just not deep enough and the bolt bottoms out. You could also trim a 1/16 inch off the end of the bolt but make sure you have at least 5/16" of threads actually used to pull with. The TINK TINK is most likely a lifter hitting the inside of the cover. While you have the covers off look for witness marks of where the lifter was hitting. Jim
Well I guess it is back to the parts store for a new gasket set, What fun. The noise I am hearing is after the engine is shut down not while it is running. It sounds like metal contracting or maybe a valve spring uncompressing. Maybe I will buy a new valve cover gasket set also and pull them off to take a look. It seems as if I will never get to injoy driving around on a beutifull spring day. well thanks for the advice so far.
Maybe someday I will get this thing off the road to do a full restoration
When you replace the intake gaskets, have everything in place, then hand tighten all the intake bolts but do not tighten down. Tighten down the long bolt that pulls the intake up against the timing cover first, then the intake bolts in the proper sequence. Won't hurt to put a small coat of silicon sealant around the mating surface of the timing cover/intake passage surface, just a little to ensure a good seal, let cure overnight for best results. This is a common problem on Pontiac engines. Hope this helps you solve your problem!
