Does anyone currently use one of these? I heard they don't hold a charge well, so would it be better to buy the imitator top cover to put over a conventional battery?

http://www.batterycentralmall.com/Batteries/TurboStart/Script/images/R59_DC.jpg

I have been wanting an R-59 for a long time but I wanted to wait until I resolved my undercharging/overcharging issues first. Now that I have the electrical issues resolved I find out that NPD, Ames and I beleive C.I. no longer carry the R-59 due to it's high retail cost (over $300 plus shipping)! NPD told me they were working with another mfg. and were close to a deal to produce them and be able to retail them around a $200 price point.

This was last summer, I have not inquired recently due to budget cuts here on the home front. LOL I do have a couple of friends who have them and they have not had any issues at all with them...

I bought their SR59 (the mtce free version) last year.
See: http://www.batterycentralmall.com/Batteries/TurboStart/Script/SR59.html

I was replacing an R59 I got from another source about four years earlier. This time I wanted to see how the better one held up. Plus, buying acid to fill the first one and then dispose of a lot of unused acid was a pain (a couple boxes of baking soda took care of it)

So far the maintenance free has been OK but it is not normal car battery use so it's hard to tell how robust it will be over time. I have a battery disconnect for safety and clock and radio drain and throw a tender on it periodically to top off the charge.

I have one if someone is interested. Still new and never had the acid added.

So I bought one of these - in March! Had it still in the shipping box in my basement since then and have been adding some new parts to the engine these past few weeks and finally got around to swapping the battery.

And it's dead - totally dead. Put it on a trickle charger and the best I could get was about 6 volts out of it. So I took it to the local auto store today. Same thing - they said it's a bad.

I'm calling Battery Central on Monday to see if they will exchange it for me. I stil have the original packaging so I'm hoping. Otherwise, it'll be a REALLY expensive doorstop.

I am still using the one I bought from 69warbird, no problems at all. Although this one you add the acid so I don't beleive its the same as the one you have...

Lead acid batteries normally ship DRY. Lift the caps and see if there is actually any electrolyte in the cells. If not, contact the battery vendor to find out how much electrolyte you need. Most auto parts stores and Tractor Supply stores will have it in stock.

Without electrolyte, the battery will effectively be dead.

Vikki,

But this is a maintenance-free battery. The instructions state verbatim, "CAUTION!!! THIS IS A MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY. DO NOT ADD ACID OR WATER!!!"

It's supposed to work right out of the box.

That's unusual indeed for a new battery. So you got the SR59 rather than the R59 (which did and does require electrolyte).

There are many ways to bring some life back to an old battery, but since this is a new battery you will want to call your vendor.

Trickle chargers are often not capable of charging a fully discharged battery. You can shine a flashlight through the battery case to be sure all cells are full to the top of the plates, then attach a quality battery charger with boost mode. Give it a couple of minutes on boost, then disconnect and read the voltage again. If the voltage has gone up, fully charge it in normal mode.

Found my old post on the maintenance-free battery I bought over 2 years ago.

I've been having starting problems the last 2 months and thought it was the starter, so I replaced that. I thought the problem with my battery not giving enough crank was related to that, and now the problem of it not holding a charge I thought was related to a brake switch problem (which I since fixed).

But the battery continues to go dead. I'm thinking my fancy OE-style battery is done like dinner. I don't think it's the alternator because I have plenty of charge when the car is running.

Has anyone else here had the same problem with these repro batteries only lasting a couple of years?

I know that I have the right to remain silent, but sometimes I don't have the ability.

WTF do you expect?

I have a wally world 1000 amp crank that I bought in 2005, and it was about $60. (650 - 1000 crank were all priced @ $60.) I do zero to it, including any type of charge during winter lay-over, and the thing cranks like a mf.

I focus on quality over price, meaning that I will pay more for the better product, such as the replacment brass rad that cost $455 on my doorstep.

I would not buy a pos producct just to make the car look good, even if it were cheaper, let alone pay more for less, but that's just me, and I wouldn't want to influence anyone and drag them down the wrong path.

I put an Optima red top in the car and it works great. I'm more for function than looks when it comes to a battery. I run one in my 4x4 too and it takes a huge amount of abuse. Never had an issue with them.

I've also got an Optima red top in mine.
I'm having charging issues right now too.

I charge it up fully.
After a few days of driving around and maybe 10-15 starts, it won't crank enough to start up and I have to give it a boost.
This is a warranty replacement battery Optima gave me this Spring because my original from them died and they covered it.

I'm running a one-wire alternator and also have an electric fan and power amp running to the +.

I was thinking of installing a negative cut off switch, assuming I must be draining the battery somehow.
Does this make any sense?

Thanks, Trevor

If your amp is wired directly to the battery without a relay, then yeah, you are most likely killing your own battery. All those charge cycles strip lifespan out of your battery.

Also check the voltage at the output lug of your alternator with your fan and amp powered on to ensure it has enough output to charge your battery under load.

I have a NAPA Ultimate with a Delco topper.

A battery that lasts more than 2 years.

Thanks all. Sounds like I should have gone the topper route like Vikki if I wanted "the look". Sometimes we make mistakes so others learn.

Well I appreciate your post because I was thinking about and R59, but I'll stick with my eight year old Diehard instead.

Just get one of these...



And put one of these on top...

Great idea!!

Hey Vikki,
No relay installed, so I need to look into this.

Voltage at alternator reads 12.8 with fan and amp powered on.

Incredibly my R59 (non maintenance free) also recently died. I am going to cut it open and make a "case" that will slide down over another battery. I had a "topper" years ago on the bird and personally I think they look cheap...