http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor3/default.aspx

This one takes the place of your points and an ignition box like an MSD. It's also got a built in rev limiter. I like their products and thought this was cool so I thought I would share it.

i have found that regular points work best with older cars

Look what arrived in today's mail:

The instructions are asking to remove any ballast resister if the car had one. It said they are normally a white block in line. I do not recall my car having one of these. Can anyone confirm if our cars had one?

Also, they are saying no solid core spark plug wires. Are the factory reproduction wires considered solid core? EDIT: They are not.

Thanks.

Our cars did not come from the factory with a ballast resistor, but came with the resistor wire instead.

If you have an Ignitor II and did the wiring conversion to supply 12v to the coil during run, then you are ready to play. If not, you will want to provide full voltage to the ignition system.

It's the just released Ignitor III.

Where is the resister wire physically located? I am not seeing it on the schematics. I also really do not want to cut up the new harness I have, so can I run a parallel wire instead?

It's the wire that runs from the bulkhead connector to the coil positive. Yes, you can disconnect it at the coil and fold it back and tape/tie it back, and disconnect it at the bulkhead connector and tape/tie it back, then install a new non-resistor wire along the bundle and wrap it in.

See the pink with a black stripe from "K" to coil. http://thefirstgensite.com/library/electrical/68wir/68wir2.html

You could also grab your 12v from other sources. This is just the way I do it.

I did the entire conversion for the Ignitor II and found absolutely NO advantage whatsoever. My car had had a top end HEI inginition when I bought the car and I hated the look. Replaced it with a stock distributor with the Pertronix Ignitor II.

Ended up removing that and went back to points almost two years ago and after 15k miles I just replaced the points. IMO points perform just as good as anything else that I have seen based on my own personal experience with my car...

I did not care for the Ignitor I but it may have been a victim of some of the other issues I was sorting out when I bought my car.

I have had no issues with the Ignitor II, nor with an HEI in my last project car.

Going with something a little different this time, I will post the results once we have a few miles on.

I don't think it is necessary to remove the calibrated resistance wire with Ignitor II or Ignitor III. Check your instructions or call the tech line. The Ignitor requires the full 12 volts, but i believe the next two versions do not.

I've used the Ignitor and the Ignitor II and I've been happy with both.