I have a paint job that's about 9 years old. I believe the paint is single stage paint (no clear coat) because if I scratch it, there’s no white mark. The car has been in my garage all these years and I'm finally to the point in the restoration / modification where it's drivable. So it's time to make the paint look better. The paint job is not show quality, far from it actually, so I'm just looking to make it shine better and get rid of some imperfections.
The car has some visible orange peel, dust, and slight oxidation. So after traversing the internet and finding differing opinions, I was thinking I would use the following steps:
1) Wash car and tape off panel I'm going to work on 2) Wet sand with 1500-2000 sand paper 3) Apply a compound with a rotary buffer (wool or sheepskin pad) 4) Apply a medium polish with a rotary buffer (wool or sheepskin pad) 5) Apply a swirl remover polish with a rotary buffer (foam pad) 6) Apply a carnauba wax with an orbital buffer (terry pad)
Are these the correct steps for single stage paint? I've read that it's okay to wet sand and polish a light colored single stage paint. It's mayfair-maze yellow. Also are the pads and buffers correct for each step?
I've never buffed my car before so I can't give you any advice on that. The orange peel would have me concerned about rust issues underneath the paint or when buffing, the paint will come off completely in those spots. I might be wrong on that. I usually leave the paint stuff to my bro.
"An ignorant man thinks he knows everything, a wise man knows he doesn't."
for bad paint ,yes that sounds about right...but otherwise...
( so, I`d not use the no 6, but clean the rest of the car with dishwashing detergent = removes wax , then polish with below product)
My advice would be to get a clay bar...plus Zaino polish (its instead of wax)...imo Zaino is the best polish ,hands down, period...I use it on my car , I have single stage paint...paint is 8 yrs old, I`ve Zainoed it 5 times in that time during 24,000 miles +- ...looks great ,wet look...
you can get the clay bar from Zaino too...if there`s oxidation etc use the clay bar, if the paint is ok, no need to.
its "kind of" expensive to buy,(I spent $50 on my order ,still have more than 70% left) but it goes a looooonnngg way! for my vert I use less than a nail polish bottle size container ea time I polish....for what you get , result wise, its probably one of the cheapest products to use too!
Yes basically and as Bjorn said, your approach is correct. I used the 1500, 2000, 3m cut, and Menszerna medium and final polishes on my new 2 stage paint. came out very nice. Just be carefull not to sand thru the paint, go easy! There are a few pix of the process on my photo link...
I had some orange peal and sags to contend with...all gone now.
Jan Misc 008, Feb 5 07 009, Feb 27 07 Paint
Last edited by Dave's White Rock '68 Droptop; 03/17/0901:55 PM.
With the paint that your speaking of I have a few answers. With the paint being that old, I would say first sand w/1000 git to get out orange peel. The paint is going to be harder that a rock to sand if it is 9 years old. I would then go up to 1500 and finish it off w/2000 grit. I know it's a lot of work but you will be happy with the results.
All of these sanding grits are aval but you will have to do it by hand. Your other option is using a DA sander. 3M makes a sanding system for DA's that a lot of the body shops use. It's call Trisact. You can get 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper for 6 inch DA's. The price per sheet is over $1.00 but it does save sometime. By the time you hit the car w/2000 grit you should only have to go over w/compound twice to get a high gloss shine.
As far as polish goes. I would use wool pad on buffer w/a extra cut compound and then go up to normal compound. You can use a grey foam pad for your finish glazing. You shouldn't have to worry about swirl marks since the color is light enough. If you do have swirl marks on surface I suggest Meguires swirl remover. This can be put on by hand like you waxing your car. Finaly put a good coat of normal wax on and you should be good to go!!
These are only my suggestions going off my 7 years of body shop experence.