Long while back there was a topic on this but I can't find it. I have stock non-power drum brakes all around, instead of putting on a disc brake kit for now I'd like to just add a power booster. On the previous thread I thought it was said the only thing you'd need for that is a longer push rod that goes up inside the booster, is that right or would I need something else?
You'll be moving the master cylinder forward requiring you to relocate the brake lines...usually doesn't come out very well and you may end up replacing them...not a bad idea for a 40 year old car. I gotta say, I had that setup and went to front power disc and I've been driving this thing like crazy! What a difference. You should be able to get a front disc conversion kit for 700-800 with all new lines and everything you'll need.
On a scale of 1-10 in difficulty, I'd rate it a good 6-7 depending on your ability.
I just finished this conversion this week. (or should I say my mechanic did) I my case we were replacing all of the brake lines so we ordered a pre-bent set and everything fit pretty well. He did mention that there was something about mounting the lever arm lower or through a lower hole or something like that. He had to take it off the firewall once because of that, but everthing else worked fine.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
When I bought my car it had manual brakes. If I remember correctly all I did was unbolt the m/c from the firewall and gently pulled the m/c with brake lines attached and all, dropped the booster in place, bolted it in and reconnected the m/c to the booster. The reason I beleive I was able to install the booster without removing the m/c was the fact that the entire project was very quick. I remember being shocked at just how quick the whole thing went. The other odd thing I remember was installing the longer (or shorter) push rod then ultimately going back to the original one. All in all it was a very easy project and resulted in huge benefit. IMO power brakes and power steering are a must!
Hmm, after checking prices on a full upgrade kit I may just do that. The smaller duel diaphragm boosters I was looking at run close to $200 wit shipping, the Matts Bow Tie full upgrade runs about $450 and has everything but the pre-bent hard lines.
68 Firebird 400's method is actually not so strange.
In fact, it follows how the factory built the cars. The brake lines were installed onto the subframes along with the M/C hanging in the air until the body was dropped onto the subframe.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
68 Firebird 400's method is actually not so strange.
In fact, it follows how the factory built the cars. The brake lines were installed onto the subframes along with the M/C hanging in the air until the body was dropped onto the subframe.
True, but the master cyl and the lines were already in the correct position for the application.
I'm not saying the way I did it was the correct way, but it worked. LOL I eventually did end up changing out the m/c about a year later as I wanted the dual bail wire style to make it correct looking, otherwise it worked out fine...
I put a booster on my cammer in the same way. You just have to be careful pulling the master cylinder forward, so you don't pinch any lines. My friend Pat did the same thing with his '67 'bird.