There is a pull lever below and behind the front bumper just to the driver's side of the center line.
Reach your hand into the lower grill opening in the valance and pull forward.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Push the hood down an inch or two then put your hand under it ready to raise it up, pull and hold out the lever you first pulled and then raise the hood.You were held up on the safety catch. Hopefully you're now looking at an engine!
The hood has a safety catch. You need to press down a bit on the nose of the hood while pulling the lever all the way forward to bypass the safety catch.
If you just pull the lever without the other hand on the nose of the hood - it won't open all the way.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
ok well the hood problems are back... there was a oil cap stuck under the hood latch so naturally i pulled it out. Well apparently it was a very important part. The hood will not open for me... i pull the lever once i hit the saftey catch, i push down on the nose and pull the lever and bypass the saftey catch. then it opens up about one more inch or 2 farther then the saftey catch and gets stuck. any help would be greatly appreciated
im only 15 but doing all the work on my bird, cant wait to get her on the road!
well i figured it out after a hour. my latch was not opening all the way so i had to take a wrench and stick it between the latch and the part that pushes down on the latch attached to the lever. doing that gave it enough clearence to push open the hood
im only 15 but doing all the work on my bird, cant wait to get her on the road!
It's easy to tell the difference on the hood. Look at the square area where the latch goes in. On a '67 hood this area is flat. On a '68-69 hood this area is angled downward.
However, you said it gets farther from the safety catch. When you look under the hood, or swipe your hand or an object past the latch area, is there anything still making contact? Or are the hinges just sticking? Hinges are a common point of failure. If they are too stiff, forcing your hood closed can buckle the sides of the hood. If they are too loose, the hood won't align properly when closed.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
it is indeed angled, so i guess that means i have the wrong hood latch.lol and i belive the hinges are just sticking, b/c it never shuts right and is always off line at the top and sticks up and i have to push down on it. sometimes the hood opens smoothly.... other times i am there for a hour...
im only 15 but doing all the work on my bird, cant wait to get her on the road!
Before addressing the latch, solve the hinge issue. There are some great photos of hood latch differences here, so if you search this forum and compare the images once you get your hood open, you can see if your latch has already been swapped. Here's one photo from Tom Brandl's web site, of a '68 latch.
When the hood is closed on this latch, a metal bar rotates out of the latch body. This will cause issues (not able to open hood at all) if you have a '67 style hood, but if you have the angled hood receiver you should be fine.
Lubricate the hood latch thoroughly with PB Blaster or other penetrating lube. The latch is also adjustable, with three bolts on the latch support, if it still makes contact after opening.
If the latch is not touching the hood after you've released it from the safety, then it's not the main problem. I have to open my '69 hood the same way, and it has all the correct parts. Pull, press, pull, lift.
You can try lubricating all the pivot points on your hinges to see if it helps. Use graphite lube, or PB Blaster, or another very slick, non-drying lube. If your hood sticks almost closed, be patient, just try repeatedly lifting with a gentle lift until it eventually opens.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
well thanks guys! my latch was not opening all the way. as i said befor i grinded off a piece of metal and welded it on the part where when you pull the lever and the piece connected to the lever comes in contact with the latch. allowing for more travle for the latch. i know i worded that terriably. sorry.haha
im only 15 but doing all the work on my bird, cant wait to get her on the road!