I am about to change from an edelbrock to quadrajet carb and realized that the two bolts in the front have to much longer than the ones in the back. I have looked at O'Reilly and at a few places on line, but they all sell the same kind of bolts (ones for carbs with flanges). Where can I get these?
The bolts you need can be purchased anywhere they sell bolts. Should be roughly 3.5" long by the thread size in the intake either 1/4" or 5/16". If you want a stud sticking up out of the manifold to mount the carb on you could use a piece of redi rod but a bolt down through would be easier. Thread the bolt down into the manifold before you put the carb on and measure the thickness of the carb and the distance between the top of the bolt and manifold. You may have to trim the bolt if it bottoms out in the manifold before it tightens down the carb to avoid breaking the manifold.
just go to a junkyard, the ones that you pull your own parts and most of the time there just laying on the ground, if not just find any Q-Jet thats still on the motor and take them off. most of the junkyards wont even charge you for them. I get all my special and hard to find bolts that way. like starter, and the long alt. bolts.
One problem with ready rod/all thread. It rust quickly, and in however long of a time, it will seize up in your manifold. Also, when you combine disimilar metals, such a other types of metals for nuts, you can get a compatibally problem, and galvinitc (sp?) corrosion can make the metal rot like a cheap peice of pine wood.
To complcate matters even more, the carburator is--alas--another alloy thrown into the equastion, so you can end up with a multi level disaster by using whatever fasteners you scrounge up.
I'm not a metalurigist--just a wrencher that doesn't have much creases on the knuckel skin. Those long bolts are some type of metal/alloy/whatever the two dollar term. They are not just off-the-shelf fasteners.
Do as 69racer says: Go to the bone yard. Also, you can probally order them from your local GM house. (You want to be careful going to a nut/bolt/fastener house because the counterman may not know what metals are compatible.
Yeah, GM will be a heck of a lot more expensive, probally $5 to $10 a bolt compared to correct 15-cent-bolt. The thing is that when you beat the GM system, you need to make sure that it's the correct type of metal. Too me, I'd rather have peice of mind and find the correct salvage or give GM the overinflated $20 bucks.
Another good option: With all these pack-rats around here, someone ought to have the correct bolts laying around by the bucket load.
That's why the bolts are cad plated. To prevent corrosion between dissmilar metals.
Grade 8 bolts that are yellowish in color are probably cad plated. Lower grade bolts that are yellowish in color will probably be colored zinc plated. Aerospace bolts will be cad plated.
Well for the short term I went to a hardware store and picked up some bolts. In the near future I will get the correct ones.
However, now that I have this buick quadrajet mounted...I am having a little problem figuring out the routing of the vacuum lines. Can anyone help me out? I am using a performer intake and the car is a 4 speed manual with power disc brakes. I am using a 5 port thermostatic switch. Can anyone with a similar set up send me some good pics of their connections? Thanks!
Ames has a picture of the vacume wiring in their parts catalog. I don't know if your going for just function or a factory look but you can bypass the whole Thermo switch. It was just used for emissions. The 68 used a push pull vacume advance. This is why you have a 5 port switch. In 69 they went to a 3 port switch. This is what I'm going to use. Very few people will know it wasn't factory.
