has anyone ever used a coil spring compressor tool on one of these firebirds. rented a tool from autozone but the top of the tool won't fit in the hole in the lower control arm
There are different size tools. I have one I've used years ago on my other cars that would not fit into my bird. I borrowed a set from a friend and it fit without a problem. If you are going to go the lower arm route, you have to take out the bolts holding the lower arm onto the subframe, but leave the spindle on. It's a pain getting the arm re-aligned to install, but I've done it and I'm not an expert by any means.
As an afterthought, be sure to have the weight of the car supported with a floor jack under the lower control arm. You do not want the arm to spring when you remove the bolts. Be careful; there is a lot of tension there. Also be sure to have the car high enough and supported by jack stands to be able to slowly lower the control arm with the jack after the bolts are removed.
found a different tool. forced top hooks into spring, then just put bottom part of tool under control arm. compressed and took out whole assembly. getting it back in was the fun part. had to reinstall the tool several times, then pry the top of the spring back in. then it wouldn't line up at the top. still have passenger side to do. but i saved like $500
I made one using 5/8" dowel rod, double bolts on both ends, and a shackle plate to fit the open side (shackle plate was made using 4 pieces of deck joist brackets around 3/8" thick. (The joist brackets were $0.50 each, and I cut the wings off and welded them together). Worked quite well.
4dabird, Do you have a pick of the tool you made?? I have a spring compressor but the lower control arm hole is too small. I got the springs out but I'm going to reinstall them with no load from the car. ( the frame is off the car) Thanks, Kyle
We removed the control arms and spring tonight using just a 5/8" piece of threaded rod, a heavy steel plate, four 5/8" nuts, four 5/8" washers, a pair of wrenches, and a couple of little bottle jacks to maneuver the control arm around. Easy work.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Sorry about the poor picture quality, hope this helps. Any questions, let me know. It's 5/8 dowel rod with double nuts on each end, and double washers as well. The plate is actually 3 pieces of deck bracing welded together for approximately 3/8" thick. Worked like a charm.
I used an internal spring compressor from one of our local parts places and took the hooks apart and slid the threaded rod in from the bottom. Reattached the hooks(one small bolt each hook) as far as I could on the top side of the spring and then did the same for the bottom and then tightned from the bottom side. The threaded rod fit perfectly through hole in the upper Arm where the shock goes as I tightened.
I used the same type tool and it worked fine. I didn't have to disassemble the actual hooks, just unthreaded the hook assemblies and put them inside the spring and then thread the rod through. Was not fun, but worked fine. And felt safe with the hooks grabbing the springs on both sides. Also Be sure to seat the springs properly in the "slots" when putting them back in.
The tool I used was from NAPA Pt#3450 Coil Spring Compressor
After removing and installing a set of springs this weekend on the '68 (fourth coil spring/control arm removal/installation) I am absolutely sold on the 5/8" threaded rod with nuts and plates method. The only improvement I have yet to make is to figure out how to tighten the nuts from the top with the control arm in place just so I don't have to spend all that time on the concrete under the car.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Vikki, I also use the 5/8 rod method. I double nut the bottom with heavy washers, run a single nut down to the upper shock mount with doubled oiled washers under it, and double nut the top about 6-8" above the shock mount. I can put a wrench on the shock mount single nut to hold it and a socket on the top doubled nut to turn it. The oiled nut and washers work great and the only time I get under is to take off the bottom nuts. In essence I'm pulling the lower arm up from the top.
But, I found out on this last spring cut I no longer need the rod to remove them, not enough free length left in the spring.
Wanting a Custom fit in an off the rack world.
I don't have time for a job, I just need the money.
Is it possible to install the coil spring by just laying it in there then jacking the lower control arm up so that it compresses by itself ? If so, what if there is no engine/trans to add weight, will the car just lift up ??
Unless it's a shortened spring the car will lift long before the upper ball joint reaches the spindle. Especially with no engine or tanny in. Removing the upper a-arm bump stop gains you a little extra travel but the threaded rod method is easy and safe. Although I still put a chain around the spring and frame, just in case.
Wanting a Custom fit in an off the rack world.
I don't have time for a job, I just need the money.
...I double nut the bottom with heavy washers, run a single nut down to the upper shock mount with doubled oiled washers under it, and double nut the top about 6-8" above the shock mount. I can put a wrench on the shock mount single nut to hold it and a socket on the top doubled nut to turn it.
Great idea! Thanks! Now all I need is another car to have to put springs on.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
alright, I've got this thing loaded out in the garage right now.. some reason it didn't work as good as you've explained but I'm a rookie. Anyways before this thing tries to take off to Pluto, do I need to orient the end of the spring in any direction ? There are no holes in the lower control arm where the spring wind end would go. Thanks
When I did mine (no motor or tranny in) I used the inner coil spring compressor to shrink the spring, set it in place and rotated the spring until in sat properly in the lower conrol arm (Kind of a ridge where the end of the coil sits against) I then used my floor jack under the lower arm, slowly brought the lower arm up making sure that I was still seated properly in the lower arm and then checked the upper arm for the same. Attached nuts on the upper and lower ball joints to hold the spindle and arms in place. When I knew I was secure I slowly released the coil spring compressor again checking that my spring was seated properly becasue if you are not you will be doing it all over again.
good tips, I have found the grooves. My mod tool isn't quite up to snuff. The plate is bending, not strong enough, also it seems that the spring is rather long and so the lower control arm doesn't want to line up so well with the threaded rod to go through where the shock absorber would go. I still have the lower control arm attached at its' two pivot points. I think it would be best if I could really compress the heck out of the spring as a stand-alone then place it into the pocket and line everything up that way as makbe states, but I don't think the makeshift rod tool works that way. I might need to go rent the regular inner spring compressor. any other ideas ?
Last edited by 69birdinamillionpieces; 09/16/0901:23 AM.
First, make sure your makeshift tool is built well enough. I used trailer spring shackle plates from Tractor Supply to provide clamping force on the bottom of the lower control arm. 5/8" threaded rod through the shock holes, doubled nuts with fat washers for safety.
When reinstalling, I used a couple of cheapy mini bottle jacks along with the threaded rod to put the arm into place. This would not have been necessary if I had an engine in the car. Without an engine, it's too light to use the weight of the car to help compress the spring.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Ok, I'm still struggling with this. I compressed the heck out of the spring and got it to fit into the pocket. I started to jack up the lower control arm to further compress the spring but the car is starting to lift, instead of the spring further compressing. The control arm is still about 3-4" away from the spindle. Should I take the spring back out and compress it 3-4" more so when I put it in the pocket I don't need to jack it up to get the ball joint into the spindle ?? I'm afraid if I compress it too much it might break or something catastrophic like that !!! How much spacing between winds can I go ??? Thanks !!! Note: I changed over to a regular spring compressor so I don't have the control arm to use as leverage.
Last edited by 69birdinamillionpieces; 09/16/0911:07 PM.
ok, I cranked the compressor down until the spring was super compressed, then I was able to load it into the pocket and jack the control arm just enough to get the nut started on the ball joint to spindle. From there on it was not bad, but it was difficult to get the compressor out of there once I had everything tight. Kinda scary thinking about that spring lettin loose, that would not be a good thing!! But it worked, and atleast the one side is now history. Woohoo!!
good idea but nope, I bought them used, just to get me down the road, since I have no money, I just needed something/anything to get it rolling. I understand they are from an original 69' Firebird. But not sure about the package options. I also realize the risk that it is a big gamble that they may be too low/high, etc.. where my tires could rub but when you have no money, and a shell of a car, you'll take what you can get. My car hasn't seen daylight in 15 years, and even then, it only saw light for an hour or so being transported from a 10year hiatus in another garage. I just want to push this thing down the street then jump in really fast and go wheeeee !!! worst case, I didn't pay that much for them, but I think they actually will work to get me down the road.. I should know in a few days, I will post some pics of it sitting out in the sunshine !!!!!!! Woohoo !!
