I purchased 2 blocks and 2 sets of heads here are the codes on them. I am trying to figure them out. A 400 YD Block, 9799914, 0267397, 20X123644, K189. The 350 WV is supposed to be a 350 HO and here are it's codes 9790070, 039469, 29R162464, H188. the heads are: #16, K189 and the #46 B189 & B209. I am trying to figure out which engine head combo to go with and since crane cams doesn't exist anymore I don't know what cam to run it. Please help a novice figure this out???? Thanks

YD block is a 400 from a 1970 Pontiac. Originally equipped with a 2 bbl and #16 heads, but these #16 heads are small valve.

WV block is a 1969 350 HO manual trans, originally came with #48 heads.

Compression with the #48s is on the high edge for pump gas. The small valve #16 might be a better choice on the 350. It really depends on what you want to do; there are other cam manufacturers besides Crane. I have an Isky in my dad's car, and a Summit going into mine. Cam selection will depend on the rest of your build.

1969 #46 heads are pretty much the same as the '70 #16s. Small valve heads.

I beleive that 400 is a 1970 from a full size pontiac with automtic transmission and a 2 brl carb, Those #16 heads would be a good match and could have been from that engine. If so they would have been the small valves and 290 hp.
You can build a very nice engine with that combo.

Are you sure the 350 is a 9790070 and not 9790079? The 79 is for a 350. WV 350 would have been 1969 330 hp out of a tempest with manual 4 speed.
What are you trying to build? Street, strip, driver?
IMO, I would go with the 400 block and 16 heads. Once you decide how your going to use it, then start thinking about cams. Compcams has a long list. A stock cam will be much different than a high perf cam.

Here is a link with the info on heads, blocks etc.: http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/page2.htm

Ya sorry the number on the 350 is 9790079. typo.

I would recommend ditching both sets of heads and finding a set of large valve heads in the 72-75 cc range.

Why spend the same amount of money on a small valve pair of heads when you can sell off what you do not want and build a large valve pair

The 350 would be as expensive to build as a 400...possibly more due to piston limitations.

IMO, build the 400 with 72-75 cc heads and be done. The HP ratings based on block code are determined by cam and heads. You can take a 200 HP block, rebuild it with a 068 cam and #16 large valve heads (not to be mistaken with the 1970's) and get a net rating of 330 (generalizing).

As far as the heads it is because I have little to nothing in either set of heads/blocks ($280). They are both good rebuildable heads. My husband said he can have them ported and the bigger valves put in them. I am trying to build a street/strip machine.

You'll spend far more money turning marginal heads into decent heads than if you start with large valve, good flowing cores. You can turn what you bought and invest the proceeds into something that offers a better starting point.

If you are serious about building a street/strip car, prepare to spend for performance.

Had a set of small valve heads with pressed in rkr studs.
last year the local machine shop quoted $700 to istall large valves with bronze guides, and tap for screw in studs.

What about Cams? what is everyone running?

Ok I found two sets of large valve heads. 68' 16's and 69' 62's which should I go with?

For all intents and purposes - they are the same, though 62's often cc out a little larger than 16's. (Better for a 400.)

Do you know what type of cam you want to run? Hydraulic roller, hydraulic flat tappet, mechanical or solid?
I've heard a lot of folks running the 068 and summit 2801 cams.
I'm switching to a custom grind from SD performance. 270 adv. 218 @ .050" lift. 212 LCA. .497 valve lift.

Depends on your goals, use, rear gear, trans, engine CI, exhaust, heads...

You can just drop in most any cam and get it to run with what you have. The key is to compliment everything as for efficiency and full potential.

Where one cam runs great in a 3.55 geared 4 speed will not necessarily work well in a 3.08 geared auto.

Trial and error.

Determine what parts you will use and build it from that aspect.

And I am a firm believer that with proper planning and asking questions, you get what you pay for and having the engine dyno tuned.

Hi Everyone,
Well . . . I ran into a kinda sweet deal. I bought an entire engine. A 67 XJ 400 with #670 heads for $500. We pulled it from a 67 Grand Prix. So I have a 350 horse power engine with 10.5:1 compression and large valve heads. I was playing on the desk top dyno and I am thinking of putting the Summit 2801 cam. What do you guys and gals think?

That's what I am putting in my '69 YT 400. I have a heavy car with highway gears so I kept it reasonable.

After wiping out 4 cams in row, I went with a roller. Therefore my advise to anyone and everyone is to go roller. I've told several people and most don't go roller due to the cost. One friend went regular hydraulic and sure enough at about 1k miles, wiped. He has since gone roller as well...

I just happen to have a 2801, and matching lifters, on the shelf that I would let go for $50+shipping. I had it in my car long enough to break it in(with the inner springs removed) and then for about 500 miles. Lifters were kept in order. Better than new cause all the hard work has been done for you already. I understand Crane made the cams for Summit but Crane went out of business so I don't know who is making them now. Car ran better, actually, but it didn't give me the lope that my Erson cam did so I took it out. It's all in what's important to you. Perfect condition.
Let me know if anyone is interested.