I have got all the screw out that I can see. Even the one high up that I had to remove the emergency brake mounting screw on the front of the dash to allow me to push it over to get to it.
I still can't seem to move the panel inward enough to allow me to pull the kick panel out the 5-6 inches or so to get that darn thing out. Is there a trick to it or something I am missing such as more screw to remove on the emergency brake? Maybe some on the firewall I don't see. I am very frustrated and any tips would be appreciated.
They are a pain the rear...you may have to remove that park brake assy. completely to get it out...alot of tugging pulling and screaming accompainied by some blood. Whey you put it back together make sure you reseal the vent opening or you will have water leaks...ask me how I know
The Doc's right. It's tough even after you have pulled the screws and the parking brake because the old putty sealer to the vent opening is holding it in.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Agree... remove the ebrake to get it out of the way, remove all the screws, ..and another hint ...warm up the panel a bit (hair dryer, heater, something.. to make the panel a bit more plyable/flexible to remove. Start at the door area and if needed, use a long screwdriver between panel and body to pry the sealant & panel away from the body. Then start the pulling...straight across from left to right, not at an angle or upwards as its sitting inside the opening.
I read the FAQ's and found an entry for this. I forgot all about looking there. It did talk about those two bolts on the firewall "engine side" duh?. Anyway, I will pull those and get that thing out today so I can get to my wiring and front cowl.
As they said before. When I replace it what is a good sealer to use?
Thanks for the help and I apologize about missing that in the FAQ's.
Strip caulk is what seems to be most popular to seal it.
Yes, 3M strip caulking. Comes in a package in strips. I get my from Eastwoods. Always sticky, never drys.
Very useful around the car and house. I have sealed up an open access hole on the side of my distributor housing and shimmed house exterior door weatherstripping and loose bathroom wall attachements (towel and toilet paper holders)
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
Okay, this is a HUGE pain in the butt. Do you remove your fusebox? That whole Left to Right idea must be key. I will attempt to warm it a little. I have it lodged crooked now and had to walk away before I destroyed the whole underside of my dash.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I removed the parking brake completely, removed the fresh air knob on the front of the dash, and removed the fuse panel. Then heated it slightly and pulled and pushed like hell.
It is finally out!
Now to clean up the cowl and put that darn thing back in. That sure is a pain.
i just replaced mine a few mounth back had all the for mentioned problems, as well as a fit that seemed to be a bit to much toward the door. when i closed the door it pushed on the kick panel causing it to flex or bulge out. tried every thing to get it to slip back some more but nothing would help. now it has a small curve in it, the door closes with no interference but still touches the panel. this has rubbed the paint off of it. so i'm have to look at a black strip now. plans are to remove again, cut all of the duct off the back repaint reinstall, and hope for the best. tim