I will be replacing several body panels and changing the color of our 68. Planning on using a base/clear product. When spraying the edges of new panels, door jambs and the underside of the trunk lid do you use bc/cc or a one step product in the same color? Also what is the recoat window on bc/cc products?
I would use bc cc everywhere. I beleive most have a 24 hour window before clear, but I would read the data sheet. If you don't make the 24 hour window scuff and put on another coat of basecoat.
Larry I painted my car in pieces. I did not want any lines in the jambs so I decided to paint with the doors and fenders off. I painted the back sides of the trunk and doors up to the point where the skins fold over a week or so prior to the rest of the car. Then before painting I masked up to those lines sealing up the back of the panels. I do not like to paint over fresh clear. Had issues with lifting in the past. Some base coats have very agressive solvents causing thin or fresh clear to lift and or blister. If you do decide to jamb out the car prior to painting be sure to verify this is safe with the manufacturer of the paint you use. I remember jambing out cars with single stage paint wet sanding and then spraying the body with no problems. The thin edges you will create in the clear by wet sanding can lift from the solvents in the base. Be very careful.
reassembly very scary lots of masking tape! several helpers.
Thanks for the reply. I will contact the paint supplier. I would prefer to paint the car in pieces like you did but am afraid of trying to reassemble the painted panels. I only have my wife and son to help me and odds are against the panels not being chipped.
Your car looks great! Looks like the paint laid down really nicely. I used to paint cars back in the 70's and 80's using acrylic enamel and hardner and even laquer for a base with clear acrylic enamel over the top with great results. Have only used modern bc/cc to spray my wifes Harley. Still learing at 53!
Thanks Terry Think you will find the bc/cc to be a pleasure to work with! Do a lot of reading, it is amazing how much easier it is than single stage paint. If you pre-assemble and mark everyting out final assembly won't be too bad. Masking tape on all the edges and some caution. Give it a day or two to harden up. If you start with the doors and work forward it goes together pretty well. I do understand your fear though. You can only decide. Keep in mind when repairing bc/cc you only need to base a small area of the defect then best to clear the whole panel. Depending on the color you can even spot in the clear with a blender. Glasurit has a good one. I blended in a section on my wifes black camaro's rear bumper that you really need to search for close up to find. Chips often can be repaired this way. Dealers have guys come in and airbrush chips all the time. Many are so good they can mix their own color on location, and you will never see it! You will have the advantage of still having left over base coat. Buy an extra quart and use it for your first coat. Then work out of your gallon can. I have about 1/3 gallon left over. I would recomend a high quality clear. Glasurit is just awesome! We just shot a cutlass with house of color,it seems like nice stuff too. I used Dupont overall clear 7900. I intend to re-clear over the winter with the glasurit. It seems to have a better gloss. But you pay for it. A guy at the paint shop asked me how much I have in my engine? Then he asked me why a couple hundred dollars matters on the part you always look at? Funny thing I will never forget, but still ask how much the paint costs. He is a freind but made a good point.
I have a freind who did 5 coats of clear, then a while later cut it and laid on 5 more. He did it 10 years ago and still is awesome! I will be happy with another 4 coats. Any more you are liable to get some sagging. He is a pro. Anyhow don't hesitate to ask if you have a Q, I check e-mail almost daily.
I am currently assisting with the resto on a 61 Safari wagon. We dissassembled the car and had our painter friend hit the panels off the car. We then jammed the car ourselves (cleaning, sanding, then bc/cc. We did 4 base then 3 clear. It's amazing how nicely bc/cc goes down and how quickly it can be handled, sanded & buffed. All within just a day or two of each other.
My friend Mike is not a painter, however, with a $50 HVLP touch up gun and the correct materials etc. the jams came out so well, the painted was amazed. Wait til you see pics of this car! It will be a couple of weeks because he is leaving tomorrow morning for Iola, WI for the big swap meet up there. When he gets back I'll post pics. The car is all back together now and the quarters are the only thing left to paint.
Good luck Larry, sounds like you are on track to end up with a real beauty there!
Thanks for the advice. I still have some panel alignment issues to work out before I am ready to prime and block. I have to keep telling myself to be patient and take my time. Took a nice long weekend with my wife and youngest son up at our cottage in northern Michigan. Needed some time off from the car. I am rested and ready to dive back in if the weather cooperates. It's 90 and humid outside today here and even hotter in my pole barn. With a little luck I should be spraying paint in a couple weeks.
Larry sure you know but just in case, fresh air respirators have become much more affordable. In the long run prob cheaper than buying cartridges all the time, and certainly safer too. How do we know if all of the contaminents are actually filtered out? Car is looking very nice, and yes I had to walk away many times. Actually doing that right now! Some times that [censored] car just t's us off!
Larry I built mine but based it off of this set-up on E-bay. I researched out all of the components,and ended up not saving enough to make it worth my while. But I feel safer than wearing a carbon respirator. I know most shops wear a full body suit and full face mask. They also do this as every day. The system says it will support a hood or half mask. Prob will need more hose than 50ft hose?
I set my pump in my basement.
Yes there is also a system utilizing your compressor. Not sure I like the idea of getting my air from an oil lubricated engine.
I was looking at that sytem this morning. Deciding on wether or not to get the 1/2 mask, full mask or full hood. I agree on the compressor air not being a great idea. I may look at pond airation pumps too. Seems like they want you to have around 6cfm. Thanks again for the input.
Larry sent you a pm of my parts list. All but the mask. I found it from an army surplus store a while back. You are welcome to post it, but I am not sure If any liability issues could result. Again research out the components to evaluate their safety. I ran the pump about 1/2 hour before using it. Also read somewhere that people have purchased e-bay systems and found that pump inside?
