Which explains why you have the newer motor mount setup that does not work for FGF's.
Adapter plates or drill and tap the other two holes. I would leave the latter choice to a machinist.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
If you have the 77 engine brackets and mounts, you can use a 3/16" "sandwich" plate between them and the 1st gen's frame and braces. Thats how i did mine.
I've got it done I work in a tool and die shop for Arctic Cat.Check out this drill templat that I made. I've got two sets of bushings that drop in the holes.One to guide the drill and one for the tap.It worked perfect, just as striaght as if I put the whole block in the mill and it only took about 15 min with a hand drill and tap wrentch.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
