Hey guysn gals, got my 69 home last weekend and now the real work begins lol. My dash lights weren't working on the way home so had to redneck it and use a flashlight. I have to say I love my wife very very much since she is retired biomedical technician and suggested a way to possible fix the circuit pattern in my car. I finished pulling the dash panel and gauges last night and found the negative ground for the dash lights had been cut from the previous owner and the circuit board copper was all loose from the plastic. So after 5 hours of gluing swearing and what else will be putting everything back in on wednesday and see if the repairs have worked. Gonna also get in under that dash and make sure all the loose wiring is sealed off to prevent shorts. Was looking at the 200r4 upgrade idea but am shelving it since the car got 20mpg all the way home from midland texas. I am sure that means it has a fairly low rear end ration in place since it has a 400 atm. Will let yall know how the circuit board repair turned out here wednesday afternoon.
Congrats. In case you did not know, they repop those circuit boards now. A new one can be very nice.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
I got a new printed circuit for my car 7 yrs ago...(every time we worked on it to fix something ,something else quit working)...Ames had them for $80....well worth it! you can svae the cussing for other things!
Yeah I may have to go with the repop but giving this one a try since the copper strips were inact just seperated from the plastic assembly. My wife being army biomed used to fix em all the time the same way *chuckles* good ole uncle sam never throws anything away and biomeds figure anyway possible to keep it going. Will post up how it goes tommorrow when I get it all reassembled. Was driving 65-70 the whole way home and got the 20 so tommmorrow after the dash is finished gonna crawl up underneath and see if I can get the axle codes off the housing and try and figure out what she has. Also was looking at my engine and got the numbers run off the heads. I was told when I got the car that it was a 350 engine poctiac from a 75 lemans. I am beginning to wonder if that is the case it has the ponti 400 small chamber 10:1 compression heads on the engine. Unfortunately I cant get to the casting numbers grrr unless someone has a trick to eyeball em while in the car?
pretty much all the casting numbers are visible with the engine in the car.
1. Stamping: passenger side front of block just below cylinder head. Two letter code, 1/4" tall.
2. Casting: passenger side rear of block just below cylinder head. Six or seven digit number, 3/8" tall.
3. Casting: both sides, center exhaust runners. Usually one digit on each runner. If it starts with 4, 5 or 6 on the left runner, there will be an additional 1/4" tall stamping on the leftmost boss on the outer side of the cylinder head.
4. Casting: adjacent to distributor base. Four character alphanumeric.
If you have high compression 400 cylinder heads on a 350, that can lower compression since the cylinder displacment is smaller.
Vikki
1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
Congrats on the new family member. Glad to hear it! Hope you get everything sorted out so you can get it all setteled and start enjoying cruising it around!
got the circuit board fixed with a little input from my wife. The superglue worked and now have the dash lights working great. Next project is to figure out why gas guage isnt working thinking it is the sending unit. Going to finish up the drum brakes tommorrow and start driving her this weekend.
Common problem with the fuel gauge is loss of ground on the tank end. There's a ground wire that comes off the sender and attaches to the passenger side frame rail.