I have all the rust repaired around the windshield channel. I am thinking that I should coat the channel with por15 or something similar. Would you body guys recommend then installing the windshield or waiting until the car is painted?
Paint the car and window channel, then install the windshield later.
But that's just my opinion.
I believe they were built that way in the factory.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold
I'd recommend purchasing a "windshield kit" from any local auto store. It consists of a roll of rope caulk and some plastic shims or spacers. You will also need a tube of silicone caulk. I generally use black, but you can use any color. I'd recommend real silicone, not a latex product. (others on this site have opined NOT to use any caulk, but I could not imagine skipping that step)
Step one: Clean(or paint) the window channel. Re-install the trim clips on the studs. (or add new ones)
Step two: With a helper, place the windshield in the cleaned channel space, checking clearances all sides. See if a couple of areas need to be shimmed from the bottom to get a better fit near the top. Use the plastic shims from the kit, and place as needed along the bottom. (you may not need to shim anything) You will need at least 1/8" between the edge of glass and the mounting clips. If you don't have this much space, the trim installation may crack or chip the glass.
Step three: Use masking tape to tape some reference points along the top corners to help you get the proper positioning. Once you set the glass onto the caulk, you likely won't be able to move or shift it.
Step four: Remove the windshield, and then unroll the rope caulk slowly placing it around the channel and compressing it to the metal. Keep the caulk closer to the inside of the opening rather than towards the trim clips. The caulk comes with a paper backing, so press it down around all sides, and then remove the paper. I generally start and end at the bottom middle so a leak point at the sides or top is not created.
Step five: With a helper, carefully hold and align the glass over the opening without touching the windshield onto the caulk. Each person should have one hand under the windshield (through the door window openings, and one hand over the top side) Take some time here because you only get one shot at this. When you think things look good, slowly set the glass down on the caulk and gently press the glass edges down all around to seat it onto the caulk. Don't worry if a couple of areas don't seal, that's what the silicone is for.
Step six: with a caulk gun, place a nice bead all around the windshield. What you want to do is fill a vertical (perpindicular to the face of the windshield) seal all around the windshield. I usually caulk and then use a 1/2" wide strip of metal used as a squeege or trowel to fill and form this vertical seal. Don't worry about getting silicone on the glass, it trims off easily with a razor blade after it sets up. Don't fill the whole channel with caulk as this will cause problems with the trim. You want to fill all the voids and space between and around the windshield and caulk.
Step seven: After all of this sets up and cures (I'd wait 1-2 days) trim off any excess caulk, and clean the glass, both sides. Then gently re-install the chrome trim.
Step eight: Go for a nice long drive.
As I said earlier, I have replaced 20 or more windshields in this manner and have never had a single issue. (not professionally, just hobby)
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
I used to be indecisive. Now I'm not sure. I feel like I am diagonally parked in a parallel universe. 1968 400 convertible (Scarlet) 1976 T/A - 455 LE (No Burt) 1976 T/A New baby, starting full restoration. 1968 350 - 4 speed 'vert - 400 clone (the Beast!) 1968 350 convertible - Wife's car now- 400 clone (Aleutian Blue) (Blue Angel) 2008 Durango - DD 2008 GXP - New one from NH is AWESOME! 2017 Durango Citadel - Modern is nice! HEMI is amazing! 1998 Silverado Z71 - Father-daughter project 1968 400 coupe - R/A clone (Blue Pearl) (sold) 1967 326 convertible - Sold 1980 T/A SE Bandit - Sold