when i put around in parades my engine gets pretty warm,last time it got to 230 and it was 45 degrees outside.i got out of the parade went around the block dropped to 200 in a half block. right now it has a 5 bladed fan with fan clutch. it also has vintage air. i believe it has a 195 thermostat. i thought about going to a 19" 6 bladed flex fan,but i keep hearing mixed opinions. when i look for replacement fans with clutch they show a six bladed fan in all different sizes. when i flipped through the shop manual it says a 7 bladed fan with clutch. i have a new shroud coming 21 1/2 id, radiator has been cleaned and flushed, 4 core seems fine.crankshaft pulley is 7 1/4 water pump pulley is 8" double groove. i was also going to put a new 180 failsafe thermostat. i'm pretty sure its a air flow problem, because you cant feel any air at idle. any suggetions on fans, clutches or pulley.

If you haven't replaced the fan clutch that is where I would start. I had a similar problem on an AMC 360 in my jeep. It would get pretty warm putting around on the trails. Changed the fan clutch and problem solved. Also I run those failsafe thermostats in all my vehicles. Seems to only make good sense!

Just my 2cents here, but I went through 3 of the fail-safe thermostats in by bird before I went to a hi-flow one instead. I suspect that when I park the car after running it for a while the heat soak would pop the fail-safe thermostats over the safety so they wouldn't close anymore. That being said, I also run them in my Challenger where they function just fine.

If you use the search function located at top of forum, you will be provided with amassed and ample information regarding this topic.

It has been extesively covered before, many a time. There is one or two threads in particular that I know will satisfy all of your areas of concern.

Welcome to the board!

I've tried'm all.
The factory clutch-n-fan works well, and gives ya alittle more hp at high speed.
But a BIG flex fan cools better at idle and low speeds.
And i dont like all that wieght on the water pump. I believe thats why the bearings wear out.
Heres my favorite recipe.

Large two row core aluminum radiater.
Factory fan shroud.
Flexalite #1319(19-5/16) with a 1" spacer.
170* stat with two 1/8" holes.
Upper-n-lower baffles.
Many guys use a/c crank(8")-n-water pump(6-3/8) pulleys.
I dont have a/c, so use 7" crk/8" w/p for alittle more HP and less strain/pressure on the system.
Mine idles about 185-190* without any baffles.
Drops to 170-175 as soon as i floor it.

The key is to ensure the plates within the timing cover are sealed properly and not corroded as well the grommet sleeves.

Secondly, Cast impeller waterpump. NOT stamped metal.

Third, correct core size for engine. Core is not corroded with crap.. Ensure cooling system properly purged (burped) so there is no air in system.

New proper pressure radiator cap.

Proper pulley size

Fan shroud proper fitment on core support and proper spacing within shroud...and sealed all around the core support

Make sure timing is correct and carb is not lean.

Don't waste your time with "water wetters" "snake oil" cures or an electric pusher fan until you alleviate and correct all the common problems first. These cars ran fine 40 years ago and age has deteriorated main cooling components so expect an increase in temps if you have a 30-40% degredation in corrosion, clogs and air in system. If the engine has not been rebuilt, the block and heads will have quite a bit of sediment and corrosion floating around and blocking cooling passages. I rebuilt a Pontiac last year and got about 3-4# of crap from within the block after baking, shotblasting and shaking.

thanks, i have read alot of the forums and they have been very, very helpful. my best guess is that i need a 7 blade fan with fan cluth (thermal), 7 1/4 water pump pulley because it has aftermarket ac. and drop a 180 theermostat in it. radiator has been steamed i dont think it was cooked though, i was told they did it, but pressure tested fine. i have a new shroud 21 1/2 id old one was only 20 id. am i on the right. oh ya timing and everything was adjusted and still ran warm at idle but cools down when driving.

Make sure the fan sits equally inside and outside the hole in the shroud.

Also try a hotter t'stat - like 195. I know it sounds counter intuitive, but the 180 might be open all the time at idle and won't allow the water to sit in the radiator long enough to throw all its heat.

my best advice is drive a little faster...lol..

If its only when driving slow ,its most likely the fan...because after you drive 20 MPH or so, the fan is no longer necessary to cool the engine , "wind" does it...so it means you have no wind going thru radiator, or the water pump impeller isnt driving the water thru. did you read about the trick to tighten the space in the water pump?

the original thermostat was a 195. still got warm

e now is 8" looking for 7 1/8

i dont believe its a thermostat problem. i believe its the fan or fan clutch. the five blade fan just doesnt move air over the motor. going to 6 blade fan with fan clutch. i am investigating water pulley size, i think it should be 7 1/8 rather than 8"

your car loves ya, there meant to be rompt, but we still go in parades, and wait in line at shows and cruises,and thats when i need to run cool. engine crank pulley is 3 groove and is 7 1/4" while water pump pulley is 8". is that not spinning my fan fast enough?

I reccommend getting rid of the clutch fan and going with a manual fan. I had this problem with my bird last summer and it was a new rebuild. I tried 3 different clutch fans, and even the severe duty cluth fan, non of them cooled my bird as well as the manual one did. Clutch fans "do not" spin at RPM at all times, only when kicked on. Run a 195 thermostat, and the manual 7 blade fan from summit racing, that has been the best combo for me. Good Luck, and keep us posted n your progress.