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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 161
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 161 |
I have been reading alot on here and most everybody that talks about bodywork say look out for a car with alot of bondo. I have replaced every panel except one door panel and I don't see how you can put one back together without body filler. When I sell the car I don't want to be one of those guys you all talk about with 1/2" bondo but in some of the areas that required lots of metal work {and beer} there is bondo. On all of my seams I used bondo to smooth the seam. On all of the door panels I used some bondo to get smooth body lines. On one rear quarter I used some to get a body line straight with the one on the door panel. So do you guys do such good work that you don't use bondo. Mine is looking good but I don't think it's a bondo bucket, or is it? Name with held incase you buy my car. <--joke
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,905
Valued Mentor
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Valued Mentor
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,905 |
It all depends on usage.
If you build or repair panels with filler, it's a bondo bucket.
If you smooth dings and ripples that would show through paint, and you can still see bare metal over most of the panel, it's part of blocking.
If you use it to conceal poor panel seams or to "align" panels, it's poor workmanship.
It is possible to do all the bodywork without the use of any filler, but you'd either have to do it yourself or be willing to be eaten up by labor costs. A small amount, a cup or two for the whole car, is not a bad thing.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,027
Power Member
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Power Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,027 |
Agreed Vicky, I believe by the time I finished blocking and fixing the odd panel ding, I have a couple of tablespoons left on the car. I started out with a pint container, half of which was left...
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,719
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Power Member
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You can also replace panels just because the originals have too much bondo.
My example is my passenger door. It obviously got hit hard sometime in the past. The repair shop drilled a line of holes from the front to the back roughly along the center line that I could see from the inside (bondo snakes). I sanded the entire door down at one point to see how much bondo there really was and saw that it was truely filler from end to end.
So I had a shop put a new outer skin on.
2012 Mustang Boss 302 #1918, Competition Orange. FGF replacement 2006 Mustang V6 Pony, Vista Blue. Factory ordered. 2019 BMW X3 (Titled to the wife, but I'm always driving it for her. So I'm claiming it) Old projects, gone but not forgotten: 1967 FB 400, original CA car. After 22 years of work, trashed by the guy who was supposed to paint it. I had to sell it. 1980 Turbo Trans Am 1970 Mustang fastback, 351C 4Bbl, auto 1988 Mustang GT, 5 speed 1983 F-150 4x4, built 302 1994 Chevy K2500 HD 4x4, 454 TBI
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,027
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Power Member
Joined: Jan 2006
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Excactly. I was lucky enough to find two used perfect fronts and reskinned the rear. The guy who welded in my rears did an awesome job...likely 1 tablespoon between the two to finish it off...
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 698
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Also, the product is important. Real "bondo" vs. a duraglass type body filler is a big difference. (I know we all use the term "bondo" to describe most any type of filler)
![[Linked Image from imageshack.us]](http://imageshack.us/a/img845/5189/turd2.png) I know that washing and waxing my car with the present condtion of my paint is like polishing a turd.....but it's my turd and I want it polished!
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 161
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Posts: 161 |
Well I am somewhere in the middle. I have used about a quart but half was sanded off. I used aftermarket replacement panels and did pretty good work on putting them on but the panel line from the rear quarter to the door just would not line up. It was only off by an 1/8" but that really shows up. I used "filler" to redirect the line on the quarter to line up. The rest of the filler was used to skim over panels like at the front of the door and the rear of the front fender just to get them dead on. Is that a Bondo Bucket?? I don't want to sell that kind of car to someone! I won't be selling it right away but sometime down the road. EB
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 698
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EB,
There are times where you will not have a choice when a repro panel just doesn't line up as it should. As Vikki said, if you are putting it on, but sanding it off to repair dings or to crisp up a body line, its part of blocking. If its properly adhered, properly sealed, and fairly thin, I would think anything more about it. Now if you are filling holes with it, thats a different story.
![[Linked Image from imageshack.us]](http://imageshack.us/a/img845/5189/turd2.png) I know that washing and waxing my car with the present condtion of my paint is like polishing a turd.....but it's my turd and I want it polished!
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 161
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 161 |
I am not really filling holes. I had to smooth seams on the quarters after welding them on. Also I welded wire onto the door skins to make better gaps and then used filler to smooth out any warping and weld lines. I only had that one area on the quarter/door panel body line that I reshaped to line it up. I also used filler where the quarters meet the upper rear body panel. Thanks EB
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,905
Valued Mentor
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Valued Mentor
Joined: Mar 2004
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That does not sound like a "bondo bucket" to me. 
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Joined: Aug 2008
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I'm just learning how to weld in little patches in hidden places but just tried patching a little 1" square in the middle of the door. Well, I welded the whole thing in and by the time I finished it shrunk in and created an indentation. I thought I was going slow and cool enough but I guess not. I didn't realize just how bad it was until my father in law came by and showed me how to check the dips and valleys with a ruler. I put a ruler on and it wouldve have taken 3/8" of filler to level it. So I guess by using that ruler trick I'm going to hammer out the dent to get as close as possible.
-John
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