While I was laying on my back in the car hooking up my new gauges this weekend I found a 2 prong connecter with a jumper wire between the wires. When I removed the jumper the car wouldn't turn over. Replaced it and it turned over just fine. This looks to be a factory harness. Am I missing a safety switch or something?
Your post answered itself. Yes, there is a clutch-activated switch on the clutch pedal bracket that is depressed by the arm of the clutch pedal when the clutch is pressed to the floor.
If I recall (and it's been a while) there is a square cut out on the bracket, and the arm of the clutch pedal has a rubber pad that hits the square cut out if there's no switch. Look for that.
That may be the A-Body style, which I am more familiar with, so take it with a grain of salt. I can't get to my car to check it out for you just yet.
I will look tonight. I have starting prepping the body for paint (rewelding the quarter patches that were spot welded). I forgot just how dusty body work can be!
I don't remember early GM cars having a "clutch safety switch". I would have thought that would have been more of a neutral safety switch for an automatic. If I remember correctly it's a heavy purple wire with a black stripe?
I also have the "missing" neutral safety switch in the new M&H 4 speed harness, I jumpered the two 10GA purple wires in the dash harness to get the car to turn over.
I do not recall any references to such a switch in the service manual for 1968, but that would be a great place to insert a starter kill switch! The factory harness did not have this circuit, the purple went straight to the bulkhead connector from the ignition switch IIRC.
Vikki 1969 Goldenrod Yellow / black 400 convertible numbers matching
The 69s definately have one that is depressed by the clutch pedal. Let me know if you need a pic. I think I took a couple for somebody else a couple of weeks ago.
That looks a bit like it. Not much different from the orig design. I'm sure it works the same. If the connection in you wiring for it is under the car I'd think 68 used a different design because 69 is made for underdash switch. There is quite a bit of extra wire under there though. Top pic is from underneath looking up. Kind of hard to figure out the orientation.
I have not. Not much time to work on the car at all the last couple weeks. Was gone salmon fishing for the last few days and leaving Friday to go visit my son in the Navy.
Cut the purple wire from the ignition and run a line from both ends to a hidden location like under your seat. Attach to switch and your done. When you break the circuit the engine will not turn over. Leave the keys in the ignition...it's not going anywhere!
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I guess I really don't understand the point of this switch. With the 67 and 68 cars, a couple of jumper wires under the hood and its gone in seconds (One to the distributor and one to energize the the solenoid to start it). I personally think you are better locking up the steering wheel. At least it keeps the honest thieves honest.